Reykjavík Grapevine - 24.05.2019, Blaðsíða 42

Árnessýsla County begins just a few
kilometres east of the Reykjavík city
limits. Stretching from the black
beaches of the south deep into the
dusty Highlands, it’s an 8,287 km²
tract of land perhaps best known as
the region that contains natural won-
ders like Geysir, the majestic Gullfoss
waterfall, the stunning historic site
of Þingvellir, and the colourful Kerið
volcano crater—known collectively as
the Golden Circle.
But there’s much more to Árnessýs-
la than that. Those visiting the main
sightseeing spots might also notice
how people have put this powerful
nature to work. Vast clouds of steam
f loat upwards from geothermal
power stations; ranks upon ranks of
neat, brightly lit greenhouses line the
small, well-kept towns, and various
handmade signs beckon passers-by
to buy local produce and products at
tucked-away farmer’s markets. For
those who aren’t on a tight schedule,
there’s much to discover just off the
beaten track.
Steam resources
With this in mind, we set out from
Reykjavík under a cloud-studded
spring sky with a list of less-trav-
elled eco-friendly stops in mind.
The first is the Hellisheiðarvirkjun
Power Station, located just before the
Hellisheiði mountain pass over the
volcanic mountain of Hengill. As well
as powering much of Reykjavík and
the surrounding area, it’s home to
a Geothermal Power Exhibition. We
peel off route one and glide towards
the huge bulk of the power station,
passing under power lines and past
several geodesic domes that guard
bore holes down to the naturally boil-
ing hot water in the earth’s crust.
The entrance hall of the power sta-
tion is huge, with huge glass windows
and a grand staircase leading up to
several floors of exhibits. A timeline
leads from the early uses of geother-
mal resources by Icelanders—such
as bathing in the Sagas, growing po-
tatoes in warm fields, and washing
clothes in geothermal springs in the
18th Century—through to today’s ex-
ploitation of natural warmth to cre-
ate electricity. Windows look into the
cavernous, clean, quietly humming
turbine halls, which produce 303MW
of electricity, making Hellisheiðar-
virkjun one of the largest single unit
power plants in the world.
Greenhouse mecca
Over the mountain pass, the road
circuitously winds down into Hver-
agerði. This town is quite literally
steaming, with a small geothermal
park in its centre, a beautiful mu-
nicipal pool with a steam room built
over a bubbling geothermal vent, and
the Ölverk bar serving geothermally-
brewed beer. Jets of steam shoot up
from the surrounding mountains,
and the environmentally friendly re-
sources are put to work to power a
village of greenhouses growing fruits
and vegetables.
They also produce other kinds of
flora. Rósakaffi is a pleasant bistro
that serves cakes, soups and snacks in
a verdant greenhouse environment.
Up the street, the Flóra Garðyrkjustöð
is a gardening nerd’s mecca. Also lo-
cated in a greenhouse, it sells plants
of all descriptions, from tough Eng-
lish ivy in hanging baskets to delicate
fronds of fern, and from giant, teem-
ing Monstera to sculptural orchids.
It’s a quite literal breath of fresh air,
and the colours, shapes and scents of
the thriving flora stir the senses.
Farm to table
We turn inland at Selfoss, taking in
the easterly view over the flatlands
to the snowy peak of Eyjafjallajökull.
The car park of the Kerið crater is
packed, so we instead take a left to the
Snæfoksstaðir forest area. There’s not
a soul to be seen on the walking trails,
which meander through some rich
woodland, heathery clearings and fir
copses to a perfect tucked away picnic
spot.
We don’t stop to eat, as tempting
as it is, because we’ve a reservation
at the Fríðheimar café. The tables of
this popular lunch stop are nestled
between high walls of tomato vines,
and the bar is overgrown with creep-
ing tendrils and broad green leaves.
Groups meander around on guided
tours of the facilities, and diners tuck
into the house speciality of fruity and
delicious farm-to-table tomato soup
and the buffet of freshly-baked bread.
Each table has basil plants with scis-
sors to trim your own garnish. Bees
buzz through the air, and there’s a
quite civilised burble of conversation.
Despite the bustling crowd, Fríðhei-
mar remains a blissfully restful lunch
stop.
All eco everything
Just up the road is the Sólheimar
Ecovillage. This small community is
home to around 100 people, many of
whom have special needs. It’s open to
the public, with a shop selling objects
made on site, a second-hand market,
and a café. Calm radiates through the
community, from the sculpture gar-
den, to the burbling riverside walk-
ing path, to the friendly smiles of the
staff and residents.
Nearby Flúðir is another geother-
mally active town that’s opening
its doors to the curious public. The
Flúðasveppir mushroom farm offers
a fascinating tour of its zero-waste
facility, with an airy bistro to taste
the eye-opening freshness of their
produce first hand.
The nearby Secret Lagoon spa is
glittering in the late afternoon sun
as we arrive. We walk around the bub-
bling, sulphurous hot pots and the
thigh-high mini-Geysir before sink-
ing into the naturally hot water and
letting any last shred of tension van-
ish into the ether.
We wend our way back to Reyk-
javík through the knotty forests of
Þingvellir and the rolling farmlands
of Mosfellsbær, our eyes glowing from
this energising brush with the Earth’s
natural energy—and everything that
mushrooms around it. Gold may be
considered the top prize, I think to
myself; but perhaps beneath that
shiny veneer lies a bright and sump-
tuous green.
Distance from
Reykjavík:
103 km

How to get there:
Route One to
Selfoss then
Routes 35, 30, 31
& 36
Car provided by:
gocarrental.is
Tour provided by:
farmersbistro.is
42The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 08— 2019
The Green Circle
An eco-friendly road trip through Árnessýsla County
Words & Photos: John Rogers
Travel
The glistening goethermal water of The Secret Lagoon The landscape coming to life A plant-lover's paradise in Hveragerði