Reykjavík Grapevine - 07.06.2019, Qupperneq 26

BEST OF REYKJAVÍK
Best Chinese
Winner: Fönix
Bíldshöfði 12
Don’t be fooled by the indus-
trial location—Fönix is a no-
nonsense family-run joint that
caters to blue collar workers, as
well as homesick Chinese expats.
The owners are a couple from the
Sichuan province, and rightful-
ly play to their strengths—the
Mapo Tofu, available as a vegan
dish or with pork, is a study in
extracting big flavours from few
ingredients. Ignore the deep-
fried shrimp and discover the
joys of the steamed dumpling—
each one is a treasure chest
of flavour and texture. Vegans
aren’t ignored here and the place
is fantastic for groups big and
small.

Runners Up:
Tian
Grensásvegur 21
While we hear whispers of a se-
cret menu at Tian—Chinese din-
ers are treated to the real thing,
while non-Chinese diners get
chop suey—Tian’s toned-down
renditions of Western favourites
fare well above the average. The
Kung Pao chicken is deservedly
popular—but try and get some-
thing from that enticing hidden
menu.
Jia Yao
Ármúli 5
Jia Yao rounds off our Chinese
restaurant trio. Ármuli has been
a tough neighbourhood to crack,
but this Pan-Asian lunch buffet
is hearty and well-priced, and
there’s an à la carte menu. The
raw ambience can be a turn-off,
but don’t let that stop you from
trying some authentic Chinese
fare.
26The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 09— 2019Best of Reykjavík
O.G. RVK
The veteran 101 joints that have
stood the test of time
Words: John Rogers Photos: Art Bicnick
In this fast-moving city, if a shop, bar
or restaurant has been around for
years or even decades, they must
be doing something right. Right?
American Style
Iceland has no McDonalds, but if
you’re craving a burger without any
pretentious chilli jam or brioche buns,
go here. It’s a no-fuss fast-food diner
with cosy booths and 90s rock-star
artwork that’s so old it’s gone full
circle and become cool again. Except
for Bono. Fuck Bono.
Austur-Indíafélagið
Iceland’s Indian cuisine mecca is
Austur-Indíafélagið, offering tandooris,
authentic local delicacies, homemade
paneer, and veggie options. Unlike
most Icelandic places, you can expect
some heat from their freshly ground
spices. Its modestly-priced sister
restaurant, Hraðlestin, is a good
budget backup.
Ban Thai
This Reykjavík staple is famed equally
for its seriously spicy Thai dishes and
its long waiting times—so much so
that one friend of the Grapevine takes
along a chessboard when he dines
there. But hey, they cook for the stars:
Russell Crowe and Emma Watson are
never wrong. Except doing Noah. That
was wrong.

Boston
The sequel to the late, lamented, and
currently undead-in-Seyðisfjörður
Sirkus bar, Boston is a dark drinking
room with and a huge heated terrace.
So if you’re done listening to the DJ,
you can go smoke your face off in
absolute comfort.
Grái Kötturinn
This cool, shady, art-filled basement
café is only open until 3pm, and serves
traditional, hearty English or American-
style breakfasts. Why it isn’t also an
evening-time diner is one of Reykja-
vík’s great mysteries.
Hornið
An airy spot with big windows and
old-school touches, Reykjavík’s O.G.
pizzeria has been baking crispy thin-
crust pizza since before it was cool.
We recommend the seafood iteration
with a glass of the house white for a
leisurely lunch.
Italía
Through a narrow Laugavegur corri-
dor lies Italía’s dining room, where you
can choose from an extensive menu
of Italian dishes. The Cacio e Pepe was
a steaming plate of cheesy comfort-
food perfection. A family-style place
that harks back to when pasta was
considered fancy.
Jómfrúin
Get away from the hipsters and
munch on some Danish-style smør-
rebrød in the company of multitu-
dinous old folks. Wash down your
open-faced delights with danger-
ously smooth Akvavit shots. Off-the-
radar boozy lunch fun guaranteed.
Mokka-Kaffi
This moody coffee joint was fa-
mously the first in Reykjavík to have
an espresso machine. It still has a
lot of the original charm, with retro
decór, low-hanging lampshades and
comfortable booths. There’s no wi-fi,
so bring a book, or a fun companion.
Kaffibarinn
With a saloon-like atmosphere by
day, when dogs and kids run around
amongst locals and tourists, Kaf-
fibarinn turns into an all-out party
during the small hours. Whether you’re
day-drinking or nighthawking, it’s an
eternally amusing barfly institution.
Mál og Menning
Iceland’s flagship indie bookstore.
The entrance area might look touristy
these days, but upstairs there’s a
nice selection of English-translated
Icelandic literature, and there’s a quiet
coffee shop to dip into the pages of
your purchase.
Seabaron
Some say the langoustine soup
recipe has changed a little since the
eponymous “Seabaron” passed away,
but this harbourside diner remains
popular. Get a cup of soup and a melt-
in-the-mouth fish kebab, still smoking
from the coals.
Vitabar
This old-school burger ‘n’ beer joint is
right downtown, but it feels like a true
neighbourhood bar. An unassuming
exterior contains the cosy, no-frills
dining room, where you’ll mostly be
surrounded by locals. For once.
Our office is above here so the smell of this pizza taunts us every day