Reykjavík Grapevine - 07.06.2019, Page 45

One Flew Into
The Coocoo’s
Nest
Fine fare at Grandi’s cosiest eatery
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Íris Ann Sigurðardóttir
The Coocoo’s Nest
Visit the restaurant at
Grandagarður 23, and online at
coocoosnest.is
When The Coocoo’s Nest first
opened its doors in 2013, they
confirmed suspicions of Grandi
becoming the hip new Reykjavík
neighbourhood. A family-run busi-
ness from day one, it didn’t take
long for their Italian/Californian
fare to impress diners, with their
brunch winning a loyal following—
they’ve been consistently voted
Best Brunch in our annual Best of
Reykjavík awards.
Íris Anna and Lucas Keller are
not only the owner-chefs, but the
couple have also revamped this
former industrial shed to great
advantage. Their small but cosy
restaurant has a gentle lived-in
vibe, and with the new Luna Fló-
rens gypsy bar next door—also run
by Íris—the number of seats has
grown.
Not just bread
One of the first to serve sourdough
bread in Reykjavík, Coocoo’s em-
braces sourdough culture entirely.
The all-American brunch pan-
cakes (1,690 ISK) are fermented to
fluffy perfection, and the classic
sourdough loaves have an enviable
crumb and satisfyingly crunchy
crust; perfect for their freshly
made sandwiches. A carb vehicle
for all those good gut bacteria, this
is the sort of healthy eating we
should be seeing more of.
Deli lunch
Soup lunches are a dime a dozen in
Reykjavík, and I don’t say it lightly
that Coocoo’s makes the best soups.
Almost always vegan, they man-
age to coax deep
f lavours out of
seemingly com-
monplace veg-
etables without
resorting to the
he av y-h a nde d
u s e of c r e a m
that many es-
t a b l i s h m e n t s
a re g u i lt y of .
The sandwiches
(1,790 ISK) are
either gratifying deli-style with
mustard, cold cuts and house pick-
les or open-faced with anything
from plump tiger shrimp to grilled
in-season veggies. A glass of house
wine (900 ISK) rounds things off
nicely, and at 1,590 ISK for a soup-
sandwich-salad combo, you’d be
hard pressed to find a better lunch
deal.
Chef Lucas is from California
and this influence is reflected in
their sourdough pizzas. On a com-
bination of NY-style and traditional
Italian crusts, it’s the toppings that
set Cali-style pizzas apart, with
local, often organic and ethically-
sourced produce used sparingly.
I’m partial to their ricotta, moz-
zarella pie (2,790 ISK) with kale,
carolina reaper honey and toasted
hazelnuts—it’s creamy, with hints
of spicy sweetness. I could scarf one
down any day.
Menu in motion
Coocoo’s menu has a daily theme,
from Taco Tuesdays to pizza nights,
Little Italy weekends, and a Sunday
brunch. The brunch is ever-popular
and on-point—reservations are
recommended—but unfortunately,
the same cannot be said for the
other days of the week.
The varied menus seem promis-
ing on paper, but I’m unsure if the
theme nights ever really caught
on with diners. I—like many cus-
tomers—often forget the day, and
wander in expecting pasta on pizza
days. On more than one occasion
now, the weekend Italian menu has
been entirely re-
placed in favour
of the pizzas and
appetizers. It’s a
common sight
to see customers
walk in and out
again, slightly
bewildered, and
the con f usion
isn’t helped by
s e r v i c e t h a t
blows hot and
cold depending on the server.
To be clear, though, it’s the or-
ganisation—and not the food—
that’s frustrating. Themed nights
may have their place, but it’s per-
plexing that the menu has a per-
sonality transplant every other day,
demanding dedicated planning
on the diner’s part. That said, the
hearty, fresh, seasonal fare and
the convivial atmosphere are ever-
present, and a revamped approach
to their menu could be all it needs
to take that spark up a notch.
45The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 09— 2019
Best brunch in town? Maybe....
A carb vehicle for
all those good gut
bacteria, this is the
sort of healthy eat-
ing we should be
seeing more of.”
ÓÐINSTORG | 101 | REYKJAVÍK | ÍSLAND
SNAPSBISTRO.IS | +354 5116677
FRENCH ONION SOUP
Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons
2.390 kr.
MOULES MARINIÈRES
steamed mussels from Breiðafjörður
2.600 kr.
FISH OF THE DAY
chef´s special
3.890 kr.
Lunch offer from 11:30 - 14:00 1.990 kr.
EST. 2012REYKJAVIK