Reykjavík Grapevine - júl. 2020, Blaðsíða 13

13 The Reykjavík GrapevineIssue 05— 2020
CONCLUSIONS
HIGHLIGHTS
Æ The unexpected adrenaline rush that comes after cross-
ing a bitingly cold glacier river for the first time and the pure
relief of pulling on a pair of dry socks afterwards. PA
Æ When Poppy told me that the view was the most beauti-
ful thing that she had seen. It made me feel glad that I could
help someone experience that, and immensely proud of my
home country. VG
FAVOURITE DAY
Æ Day 2 - The views over Álftavatn and the two glaciers,
Eyjafjallajökull and M#rdalsjökull make every one of the
trail’s 55 kilometres worth it. PA
Æ Day 1 - Whiskey, chicken soup and countless rounds of
Ólsen Ólsen in the Highlands. Can’t really beat that. VG
WORST DAY
Æ Day 3 - Black sands. PA
Æ Day 3 – Did we mention the two rivers? VG
FAVOURITE CAMPSITE
Æ Álftavatn - Real grass to pitch your tent on plus a massive
lake—what’s not to love? Head straight there on the first
night. Sure it means a 24km day, but it’s worth it to avoid
Hrafntinnusker. PA
Æ Hrafntinnusker - It’s like camping on the border of life
and death. Dramatic and odd. Who needs comfort anyway?
VG
BEST HIKING FOOD
Æ Chocolate-covered nuts and raisin mix—a hiker’s crack
cocaine. PA
Æ Tortilla wraps – the most space-efficient lunch. Sorry, but
flatkaka doesn’t quite cut it. VG
WORST HIKING FOOD
Æ Granola - mix with water for a depressing start to any
morning or use as a highly inadequate pillow at night. Just
wait until the bag splits in your backpack, then the fun really
starts. (Honourable mention also goes out to Har!fiskur. I
still haven’t quite forgiven Art for its unholy stench). PA
Æ Baked beans. It’s just weird to have that in your backpack.
I know that now. VG
BIGGEST MISTAKE
Æ Getting sunstroke. Yes, it can actually happen in Iceland.
I was surprised, too. PA
Æ Forgetting to eat. It happens to the best of us. VG
TOP TIP
Æ Bring a pack of cards. PA
Æ Don’t forget sunscreen, shades and an extra pair of shoes
for river crossings (and whiskey, of course). VG
- DAY 5 -
MONOTONY RETURNS
09:25 - I’m entertaining the possibil-
ity that I might be indestructible. Five
days and 55 kilometres and not a single
blister, not even any aches or pains.
No one is more surprised than me—
maybe this is my calling? Watch out
Everest, I’m unstoppable. PA
11:30 - I feel numb. It’s kind of hard
to focus. My thighs are killing me, but
my feet are in pretty good shape. I feel
somewhat out of touch with everyday
life. It's like I'm permanently hungover
after the highlands or I'm existing on
a different frequency. I feel a little sad
it’s over, but I’m incredibly glad at the
same time. I feel like I can do anything,
although I might have to rest for a few
days first. VG
- DAY 4 -
SCREW YOU NATURE
Emstrur to "órsmörk (15 km)
09:15 - I’m trying to give everyone at
the campsite food from my backpack in
a desperate attempt to lighten my load.
Only Poppy accepted the kind offer of
porridge with a sprinkling of crushed
Maryland cookies—an innovation I’m
immensely proud of. What was I think-
ing when I was packing? That I was
going to the moon? Also, I’m out of
coffee. Why did I take a kilo of oats, but
almost no coffee? VG
14:30 - Today’s route offers the most
varied scenery of our journey. We
cross rickety bridges over huge canyon
rivers, scrabble down dusty moun-
tainsides and walk through lava fields
speckled with minute red flowers. As
the landscape becomes less severe,
wildlife and vegetation slowly return.
It’s the first time we’ve seen trees the
entire hike. We even spot a lóa camou-
flaged amongst the moss. Thinking
back to the snowy highlands or yester-
day’s black wasteland, I can barely
believe Laugavegur’s contrasts. PA
15:03 - Everything seems… I don’t
know. I’m watching the glaciers in
the burning sunlight. I can feel my
skin burning. My body somehow feels
slower, but it’s like my mind has entered
some state of hyperfocus. Actually, it
feels like a nice time to write a poem
like the romantic poets of the past did.
They got a hard-on every time they saw
a mountain. Well, I don't have a hard-
on, but it’s worth trying. VG
15:23 - The final glacier river looms
before us; a great grey serpent barring
our way. A low dread simmers in my
stomach as I remove my socks and
boots and roll up my trousers, before
slipping on still soggy trainers. Earlier
on in the trip we were told by a hiker
heading in the opposite direction that
the river reaches hip height but looking
at the churning waters it’s impossible
to gauge its depth. I grip Valur’s hand
and take my first step, ready for the
onslaught.
Step after step and the water reaches
no higher than my knees. Bewilder-
ment quickly fades into relief. There’s
no swearing and screaming this time;
no sprinting for towels and fresh socks.
Maybe the water’s warmer or maybe
we’re simply tougher now. PA
Crossing Markaljót Glacier river? Easy.
Screw you, nature. VG
And on the other side of the river? Para-
dise. The smell of Icelandic summer
fills the air and a broad track leads us
ever closer to civilization and the end
of our adventure. PA
17:36 - We’re officially FINISHED!
I’m so high on success that I’m half-
considering hiking all the way back to
Landmannalaugar just to prove I can.
But for now, I’m heading straight to
the bar at the Volcano Huts campsite in
Húsadalur. SKÁL! VG