Reykjavík Grapevine - maí 2020, Blaðsíða 12

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2020
12
Best Goddamn Restaurant

Sumac Grill + Drinks
& Skál
Joint Winners
Sumac Grill + Drinks, Laugavegur 28
Sumac’s vibrancy seeps into everything—the food, ambience, service
and its mix of diners across age groups. Chef Þráinn’s love for Leb-
anese-Levant flavours is reflected in the menu. By focusing on fla-
vour profiles unique to the cuisines, it is a successful transplant from
Beirut to Reykjavík. For an indulgent spread, we recommend getting
all the dips and a few flatbreads. Mop it up with the excellent grilled
lamb chops (commendable for the absence of sous vide) and the now
cult whole roasted cauliflower. Our only pet peeve is the kitchen’s
mysterious affinity for smooth purees. Sumac, we love you but give
us a gritty muhammara and the silky strands of eggplants.
Skál, Hlemmur Mathöll, Laugavegur 107
What do we say about this Bib Gourmand awarded restaurant that
defies labels? Is it a gastropub or an experimental kitchen? Chef
Gísli’s passion for cooking from the island permeates both the food
and drink. The cod wings will have you weep with joy, the charr is a
buttery cocoon of comfort, and the lamb ribs unctuous. Pair with
guest brews, or natural wines... or maybe a pineapple weed cocktail-
on-tap is your thing. Whatever your preference, you’re in for a world
class experience. Peppy service and fine dining flourishes will make
you forget you are in a bustling food hall. All we can say is Skál!
Runner-Up
Mat Bar
Hverfisgata 26
The warm elegance of Mat Bar’s
gleaming brass bar is further enhanced
by its striking green and black interior.
The attentive details translate to the
food as well. The rotational menu has
gone from strength to strength with
seasonal flourishes. It’s affordability
and sharing plates create that enviable
air of conviviality.
Previous Winners
2019: Snaps
2018: Mat Bar
2017: Snaps & Matur og Drykkur
2014-6: Snaps
Best Place For A Fancy Meal
Grillið
Hótel Saga, Hagatorg 107 8F
A shatteringly thin tuile arrives, the
teeny purple wood sorrel recalls
butterflies. Inside, is a treasure of milky
chicken liver mousse and bilberries.
You may then flit to the puffy, cloud- like
orb of potato bread so good, you might
just forget that silky garlic veloute.
Too often fine dining can feel like a
straitjacket experience. At Grillið, you
are put at ease with the playfulness of
the food, especially the small bites. The
wine and juice pairing is a missed op-
portunity. However, the expansive views
are singular and the service attentive.
Desserts leave you with that same aha
moment as when you first walk in and
for that, Grillið retains its top dog spot.
Runners-Up
Dill
Laugavegur 59
Dill 3.0 as it’s popularly known is back
after a brief hiatus. Chef Gunnar Karl is
clearly keen on bringing that star back
to Iceland. The new space is all warmth
and cool-cat dinner party vibes. Hand-
picked details abound and the tasting
menu bucks the established norm. For
understated luxury and a memorable
dining experience, bet on Dill.
Vox
Hilton Nordica, Suðurlandsbraut 2
Many hotel restaurants' bad rep isn’t
helped by their all-day menus leaving
those looking for a culinary experience
wanting. Vox, however, puts those cli-
ches to rest dramatically. The smoked
potato purée with poached egg and
caviar is as decadent as it sounds,
topped only by a 1953 Baron de Sigo-
gnac Armagnac—an elegant nightcap.
Previous Winners
2019: Grillið
2015-8: Dill
Best Family Restaurant
Hamborgarafabrikkan
Höfðatorg & Kringlan
Parents' Choice
The Hamborgarafabrikkan burger chain
is ideal for a lunch outing with the
family. There are plenty of distractions
for young diners, including borrowed
iPads and headphones to keep the
kids entertained. The child-friendly
vibe explains why it continues to be
a popular haunt for birthday parties,
so don’t be surprised by the chorus of
“hún á afmæli í dag” wafting around
the room every now and then. There’s
a wide range of juicy square burgers,
veggie options and house sauces to
choose from, with comfortable seating
and friendly service in both central
Reykjavík locations.
Kids' Choice
Osushi
Tryggvagata 13
It isn’t always sunshine and rainbows
when dining with young wards. At
Osushi, the entertainment is taken
care of by its engaging conveyor belt
format. The selection manages to
please safe and adventurous palates
alike, so whether its toddler friendly
hosomaki or play-with-your-food eda-
mame or spicy tuna rolls or more than
acceptable sashimi, there’s something
for everyone. Chopstick skills are an
enviable bonus, what’s not to like?
Newcomer
Laundromat
Austurstræti 9
With the same branding, focus and vibe
as it’s original predecessor, Laundromat
is bringing families back out from their
hidey holes. The basement play area is
brand spanking new, clean and ready
to satiate any play time demands of its
young customers, while their parents
can enjoy some respite. The tasty burg-
ers are just a bonus really.
Previous Winners
2018-9: Hamborgarafabrikkan
2017: Jamie’s Italian
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2020
Dining
From fancy meals to free refill Plokkfiskur
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GRANDAGARÐUR 11
101 REYKJAVÍK
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