Reykjavík Grapevine - maí 2020, Blaðsíða 20

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2020
20
DINING
A Sublime
Symphony
Dill 3.0 rattles fine dining norms
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Art Bicnick
I walk into the womb-like vesti-
bule of Dill, still smelling faintly
of tar and paint, with just enough
lighting to help my eyes adjust
to the dark interiors. The light
grows as I walk up the stairs and
so does my anticipation.
Dill 3.0 has only been open
a few weeks at the time of the
visit. We normally do not review
restaurants this early, but this
is chef Gunnar Karl, and when
he tells you that he is planning
to turn the tasting menu-wine
pairing concept on its head, you
grab front row tickets post haste.
Laissez-’fare’
The space that once housed-
Nostra has been transformed
into a rusty terracotta cocoon of
warmth. Foraged greens in clear
glass frames and burnished wood
ledges with wine glasses strike
a homely vibe. With the service
abandoning the long-winded
spiel about the restaurant-ingre-
dients-techniques for easy con-
versation, I can’t help but feel I am
at a friendly dinner party.
Echoing that same vibe, the
wine courses—all natural—are
offered for a group of dishes,
rather than the traditional course
by course pairing. In a fine dining
setting such as this, the democra-
tisation of pairings allows for re-
freshing dialogue between diners
and the chefs.
Signature snacks arrive in rap-
id succession—a teeny disc of cod
chip dotted with prunes, a thim-
ble of ‘kitchen scrap’ consomme
is a mouthful of deep dashi-like
intensity, and the goose offal pate
is like swallowing a Christmas
bauble in the best possible way.
Ruby red beets and equally bloody
blueberries are raw and pickled
with a light snow of horseradish,
the stinging sharpness of which
nicely augments the Blanc de
Blancs de Bouzy ‘B3’ champagne
from Jean Vessele.
The ‘onion cake’ however is
already gaining notoriety. A rich,
almost malty financier, the ren-
dered onions interestingly recall
foie gras-like butteriness. Cut
with the sparkly wine, this re-
mains a bite you remember long
after the meal. Each of these her-
alders are perfectly one-bite sized
designed to leave one longing for
more.
Beyond tasting menus
A stream of demure and verdant
local veggies arrive next. Match-
stick like raw rutabaga becomes
more than the sum of its parts
with its coriander and chilli fleck-
ed rutabaga mash. The 2015 Char-
donnay from Alexandre Coulange
highlights the citrus notes of the
coriander, making it one of my
favourite pairings of the evening.
Solfinn Danielsen’s curation is
unmistakable.
Designed to reduce kitchen
waste and to use ingredients in
their entirety, the main courses
each honour one star ingredi-
ent—on this occasion, cod and
goose.
Fish bones are simmered for
a soup, and when poured over
tiny orbs of al dente potatoes it
is a more successful reference to
plokkfiskur than the quenelle of
cod that preceded it. The dry 2017
Chenin Blanc from Garo’Vin is an
arresting accompaniment, but
the cod centres are so textbook I
find myself longing for some guts
and glory.
The goose breast with pickled
crowberries reminds me that this
is what the goose likely ate sans
the copious puddle of seaweed
butter of course. The punch is de-
livered with the intensely savoury
goose leg broth, every sip studded
with a brunoise of pickled root
vegetables.
As I look back, however, it is
the humble griddle-cooked pota-
to flatbread I am thinking about.
Nostalgia is a powerful ingredient
in cooking and one that Dill has
long teased. Here the bread with
smoked cream cheese and hand
harvested salt is a reminder of
flatkaka and smoked meats tra-
ditionally eaten in Iceland, with
neither of the two components
actually being served.
Dill 3.0 cleverly curates an en-
tire experience, be it the absence
of branding except for subtle
flourishes in the letterpress menu
cards, the cutlery jar instead of
place settings and the eclectic
playlist. Even as the winning
wine and dinner service are book-
ended by precision food, it is all
designed to put you at ease, and
really rattle fine dining norms.
And that it does, with aplomb.
Update: At the time of publishing, Dill
has reclaimed their Michelin Star.
Y U Z U
r e y k j a v í k
í s l a n d
b u r g e r r e s t a u r a n t & b a r
i n f l u e n c e d b y a s i a n f l a v o r s
H V E R F I S G A T A 4 4
SEE ICELAND LIKE
NEVER BEFORE
EXPERIENCE THE ULTIMATE FLYING RIDE
Experience Iceland's most awe-inspiring landscapes
at this all-weather activity in the heart of Reykjavik.
As you hang suspended, feet dangling in front of a
20-metre spherical screen, special effects including
wind, mist and scents help you see and feel our
natural wonders like never before.
Book your tickets at FlyOverIceland.com
REYKJAVÍK’S
ATTRACTION!
NEWEST