Reykjavík Grapevine - Dec 2020, Page 29

Food
Traditional, Yet
Contemporary
Where: Skál!
Chef Gísli Matthías Au!unsson is
known for taking the deeply Ice-
landic and making it oh-so-of-the-
moment. And he does it yet again
with this year’s take-away menu.
A small yet satisfying affair, the
starters are really the stars here (a
warm, cardamom scented braised
pork cheek with barley is perfectly
lovely too). The laufabrau! is a tra-
ditional recipe, culled from a sous-
chef’s grandmother. This one is
chock full of cumin, the best kind if
you ask us. Wispy layers of manda-
rin-hued cured salmon are draped
over chunky batons of horseradish-
dressed rutabaga, the raw on raw
is a contradiction of textures and
flavours. The hangikjöt is doubly
smoked, ribboned with fat and is
mellowed momentarily by the mus-
cat creme. The winner-repeater
however is the sild. The underrat-
ed herring comes into its own at
Christmas, and here it is reminis-
cent of the Russian ‘herring in a fur
blanket’ except, lighter, fresher and
almost spring-like. Pink with beets,
brightened with fresh horseradish
and sourcream and peppered with
cress, this is a dish we came away
wanting to recreate.
A Little Kiss From Asia
Where: Fiskmarka!urinn
While we are firm fans of the Grill-
market X-mas menu, we decided to
shine light on its sister Fishmar-
ket, who more than holds her own.
Special mention has to be made of
the staff, who weren’t just attentive
but followed safety protocols to the
T. With a focus on wild caught pro-
duce, this year’s menu stays true to
the restaurant’s love affair with fla-
vours of the East. Devoid of farmed
salmon’s pronounced fattiness, the
wild salmon is lightly cured, lightly
charred. There is wild duck served
two-ways and roast deer with trim-
mings. But the highlight of the
evening remains the wine service.
The festive menu can be paired with
maverick South African winemak-
er, Pieter H. Walser’s Blankbottle
Winery—none of the bottles men-
tion the varietals or blends except
for the vintage. A fitting pairing for
the year this has been.
29The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 06— 2020
Fiskmarka!urinn's treats
Skál's take on X-mas
Food
Ó!INSTORG | 101 | REYKJAVÍK | ÍSLAND
SNAPSBISTRO.IS | +354 5116677
FRENCH ONION SOUP
Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons
2.490 kr.
MOULES MARINIÈRES
steamed mussels from Brei"afjör"ur
2.600 kr.
FISH OF THE DAY
chef´s special
3.990 kr.
Lunch offer from 11:30 - 14:00 1.990 kr.
EST. 2012REYKJAVIK