Reykjavík Grapevine - des. 2020, Blaðsíða 29

Reykjavík Grapevine - des. 2020, Blaðsíða 29
Food Traditional, Yet Contemporary Where: Skál! Chef Gísli Matthías Au!unsson is known for taking the deeply Ice- landic and making it oh-so-of-the- moment. And he does it yet again with this year’s take-away menu. A small yet satisfying affair, the starters are really the stars here (a warm, cardamom scented braised pork cheek with barley is perfectly lovely too). The laufabrau! is a tra- ditional recipe, culled from a sous- chef’s grandmother. This one is chock full of cumin, the best kind if you ask us. Wispy layers of manda- rin-hued cured salmon are draped over chunky batons of horseradish- dressed rutabaga, the raw on raw is a contradiction of textures and flavours. The hangikjöt is doubly smoked, ribboned with fat and is mellowed momentarily by the mus- cat creme. The winner-repeater however is the sild. The underrat- ed herring comes into its own at Christmas, and here it is reminis- cent of the Russian ‘herring in a fur blanket’ except, lighter, fresher and almost spring-like. Pink with beets, brightened with fresh horseradish and sourcream and peppered with cress, this is a dish we came away wanting to recreate. A Little Kiss From Asia Where: Fiskmarka!urinn While we are firm fans of the Grill- market X-mas menu, we decided to shine light on its sister Fishmar- ket, who more than holds her own. Special mention has to be made of the staff, who weren’t just attentive but followed safety protocols to the T. With a focus on wild caught pro- duce, this year’s menu stays true to the restaurant’s love affair with fla- vours of the East. Devoid of farmed salmon’s pronounced fattiness, the wild salmon is lightly cured, lightly charred. There is wild duck served two-ways and roast deer with trim- mings. But the highlight of the evening remains the wine service. The festive menu can be paired with maverick South African winemak- er, Pieter H. Walser’s Blankbottle Winery—none of the bottles men- tion the varietals or blends except for the vintage. A fitting pairing for the year this has been. 29The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06— 2020 Fiskmarka!urinn's treats Skál's take on X-mas Food Ó!INSTORG | 101 | REYKJAVÍK | ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS | +354 5116677 FRENCH ONION SOUP Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons 2.490 kr. MOULES MARINIÈRES steamed mussels from Brei"afjör"ur 2.600 kr. FISH OF THE DAY chef´s special 3.990 kr. Lunch offer from 11:30 - 14:00 1.990 kr. EST. 2012REYKJAVIK

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