Atlantica - 01.03.2004, Blaðsíða 24

22 A T L A N T I C A
Complementing the grunge fashion
are the numerous buildings blanketed
by graffiti. The facades make the build-
ing appear derelict, but often times
what’s inside is a fancy sushi restaurant
or a chic club.
To catch a glimpse of graffiti cool,
check out Rosenthaler Street which is
officially in Mitte. Around Rosenthaler-
platz is a cluster of clubs and restau-
rants, the perfect place to start an
evening. There is Rosental Café & Bar
(Rosenthaler St. 38), with its adobe-
coloured walls and large, wood tables.
On warm nights, customers sitting on
the back patio merge with those eating
at Pan Asia (same address) as the two
businesses share a common space.
Since Rosental serves light meals and,
according to bartender Joachim, doesn’t
pick up until around 10 or 11 pm, sit
down at Pan Asia and order the chicken
curry for dinner – the chicken is so ten-
der it melts in your mouth. Before you
go, check out the communal bathrooms
(yes, I said bathrooms) downstairs to
take in the full elegance of Pan Asia.
If you enjoy a bit of Cyrillic with your
pub grub, head to Gorki Park café & bar
(Weinbergsweg 25), bordering the
neighbourhoods of Mitte and Prenzlauer
Berg. As the name suggests, Gorki Park
conjures up images of Mother Russia – a
beatnik Russian pub where rough drafts
of novels are hashed back and forth over
drink after drink. Of course, that’s just
the image. All types, regardless of liter-
ary skills, looking for an afternoon meal
and pint will enjoy the ambiance.
EASY LIVING
When the sun’s warming Berlin, head to
Weinberg Park to laze the rest of the
afternoon away. The park teems with
students blowing off their studies, and
lovers lying on blankets trying to lose
that pasty winter white. Like any park
worth its salt, this one has a pond full of
water lilies. Darkening her skin tone a
short distance from the pond is Alina
Bauer, a 25-year old actress who doesn’t
want to “make it” in Hollywood but
instead wants to “touch people” with
her acting. As to why she enjoys living
in Berlin, she offers the perfect paradox:
“It’s tough, so you have to work hard to
make it here. But it’s also easy living. I
enjoy the people, the parties – the
lifestyle.”
If you want to capture a glimpse of the
“people, parties and lifestyle” of East
Berlin, head to the dingy – yet popular –
Bergstüb'l (Veteranenstrasse 25) with its
tattered brown bar seats and tacky gold
walls. As one cabbie told me, “This is a
real German pub.”
If this pub doesn’t satisfy you, head
down Kastanienallee which straddles
the neighbourhoods of Prenzlauer Berg
and Friedrichshain. This street is hang-
out central. It’s futile to worry about
where to go because regardless of the
day or time, a cultural smorgasbord is to
be tasted, smelt and heard when
strolling Kastanienallee. Step past a bar
or restaurant, and if the Berliners over-
flowing onto the sidewalk like a river
cresting a seawall happen to catch your
fancy then mosh your way inside. If not,
walk down the block to the next spot.
If too many choices make you anx-
ious, remember the following: in East
Berlin, sometimes the best way to pick a
place to go is by deciding which build-
ing has the coolest graffiti.
Edward Weinman is a staff writer.
Berlin
Cosy Café
Merging a flair for style with an
artistic appetite for gourmet food,
Anne Seidel has opened a bistro
so colourful it looks as if it was
pulled straight out of the quirky
French film Amelie. The bistro,
Dörtebecker (Veteranenstrasse 27),
named after Seidel’s daughter,
serves an assortment of soups,
breads, wraps and cakes. Have a
seat on one of the red pillows
plopped down next to the bay win-
dows and enjoy a bowl of goulash
just like mom used to make, but
with a twist.
Icelandair will fly twice a week
from Keflavík International airport
to Berlin, starting 6 June
through 29 August.
“What I like about Berlin is that you can
get into the clubs with sneakers.”
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