Atlantica - 01.04.2006, Page 48

FAROE ISLANDSa
Thomsen’s house faces the Faroes’ four southernmost islands. The unin-
habited island of Lítla Dímun looks close enough to swim to. He bought
his modest cream-colored house in December, nearly four years, he
says, after the last residing villager, Christoffur, passed away. Technically,
Thomsen says, there is one other permanent resident with a registered
address in Skarvanes, but he lives in Tórshavn.
“I appreciate more peace now that I’m getting older,” he said. “I can
sit and write. I can work, I can walk in nature... fish... walk in the hills. I
don’t feel isolated.”
When on the road in the Faroes, it’s impossible to stray far from the
white-capped waters of the North Atlantic. The furthest you can travel
“inland” is about four kilometers on an unnamed road (unnamed at least
on our map) that leads to Saksun, a town of fewer than 30 people that
feels quite literally like the end of the earth. High, rocky knolls and sheer
craggy cliffs rise above the town on three sides, dwarfing its sod-roofed
church and meager sampling of wood-and-stone houses.
Homes in the Faroes face the sea. And churches. And cemeteries. Little
has changed in the last century – or forever, for that matter – regarding
the importance of fishing to the Faroese economy. The country would
be belly-up without it. Fish and fisheries products account for 95 percent
of total Faroese exports, or about half of their total Gross Domestic
Product, according to the Ministry of Fisheries and Maritime Affairs.
The harbors of Tórshavn and Klaksvík, the Faroes’ second largest
town, are veritable parking lots for hulking seafaring vessels with names
like “Thor,” “Pegasus,” and “Goliath.” Lines the width of my fist keep
these trawlers tied securely to the dock. On a cold, windy Sunday after-
noon, men wielding body-sized blowtorches repaired the rusty, weath-
ered hull of a dry-docked long liner. It’s the sea that unites the Faroese,
both young and old. It’s also one of the primary reasons why many of the
Faroese are deeply devout Evangelical Lutherans – the Faroese have lost
many men to the sea.
The Faroes have been an autonomous region of Denmark since 1948.
The islands have their own prime minister, government, parliament,
flag, national airline and, of course, a national football team. The islands
do, however, still receive annual subsidies from Denmark amounting to
roughly USD 100 million, or about 10 percent of the Faroes’ GDP.
But, like its territory neighbor Greenland, the Faroese government has
not figured out a way to save its outlying villages. “The Faroese parlia-
ment and government are talking about how to make a policy so people
can stay in these [outermost] islands like Mykines and Fugloy,” said
Tórshavn Mayor Jógvan Arge. “But it seems to me that it’s very difficult
to make a policy that can save them.”
Ironically, the Faroes’ eastern and westernmost islands of Mykines and
Fugloy are the real gems of the Faroes. Approximately 20 people live on
them combined. The easternmost outpost of Fugloy, which means “bird
island,” is appropriately named. Thousands of seabirds come here to
nest at Nordberg, precipitously steep cliffs on the island’s western shores.
Mykines is one of the most rugged islands, and is the place to come
if you’re a birdwatcher: more than 30 species nest on the island’s cliffs,
including guillemots, manx shearwaters, storm petrels, and fulmars. More
than 25,000 puffins are caught between early July and mid-August each
year near Lambi, the western point of Mykines island. Don’t be surprised
if you see one on your plate for dinner when you get back to Tórshavn.
46 AT L A N T I CA
THREE DAYS, THREE ISLANDS
The Faroes are do-able in a long weekend
if you choose your islands wisely. Atlantic
Airways flies from Reykjavík’s domestic
airport three times weekly in May, and four
in June. Atlantic Airways: www.atlantic.fo,
+298 34 10 00. Once on the islands, life
will be easier if you rent a car, but if you’re
not in a hurry, you can get around by bus.
If you only have three full days, Atlantica
recommends spending one day on each:
MYKINES Catch the ferry from Sørvágur,
near the Vagar Airport, and steam to the
Faroes’ most westerly outpost, largely
considered the most popular. Crashing surf
batters its craggy cliffs rising perpendicular
from the sea. This is the spot for bird con-
nonsieurs and those who want to catch
a glimpse of the puffin. Bear in mind you
might get stuck here longer than you might
like thanks to what can be downright nasty
weather, but it’s worth it. You can camp,
or stay at Kristianshús (+298 32 19 85 or
mykines@post.olivant.fo).
SUDUROY It’s a two-hour ferry ride from
Tórshavn to the Faroes’ most southerly –
and least touristy – island. Virtually the entire
west coast is comprised of precipitously
steep bird cliffs, and the mellower east coast
is where most of the settlements are tucked
away. Two things not to miss: the impressive
Beinisvørd cliffs in the south, and the original
Faroese flag held in the church in Famjin.
Befriend a Faroese and have them unlock
the church so you, too, can catch a glimpse.
Stay at Hotel Tvøroyri (+298 37 11 71) in
the town of Tvøroyri.
TÓRSHAVN A manageable walking town.
Stroll through the Tinganes neighborhood
by the harbor, where many of the Faroese
ministries’ offices are located. Don’t miss the
stunning Nordurlandahúsid, or the Nordic
House, a tribute to Nordic culture thanks to
its Norwegian floor tiles, Finnish furniture,
Swedish timber walls, Danish glass, and
Icelandic sod roof. Tórshavn’s National Art
Gallery and Magnus Cathedral in nearby
Kirkjubøur are also recommended. Stay at
Hotel Føroyar or its adjacent, and cheaper,
hostel (+298 31 75 00, www.hotelforoyar.
com) for its spectacular views, or Hotel
Hafnia (+298 31 32 33, www.hafnia.fo) for
its central location.
For more information, contact the Faroe
Islands Tourist Board. www.tourist.fo
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