Iceland review - 2012, Qupperneq 45

ICELAND REVIEW 43
Eat, Play, lovEThe village's fishing boats are
mirrored in the calm waters
of the bay, the late sum-
mer sun offset with a gentle
breeze. A couple sits at one
of the picnic tables that line the waterfront,
watching the boats come in. At first sight, this
unassuming seaside town, population 2,200,
seems like any other, but behind the facade of
boatsheds and whale watching facilities lies
a surprising variety of artistic and culinary
innovation.
After having built up the industry over the
past 20 years, North Sailing, run by three
generations of the same family, offers tours
on renovated traditional oak fishing boats. A
growing number of tourists head to Húsavík
for the minkes, humpbacks and porpoises
that frequent the bay. All in all there are 11
species of whales, dolphins and porpoises in
the area and seabirds abound too; puffins,
razorbills, guillemots and skuas are among
the 18 bird species to have been spotted.
Culinary innovaTionS
Before the tourism boom, Húsavík once
served as the export harbor for silica extract-
ed from nearby Lake Mývatn. Now, the com-
munity is looking at further ways to boost
employment opportunities with large-scale
industrial projects, including silicon metal
factories at nearby Bakki, powered with
geothermal energy. In the me ntime, fishing
remains a mainstay of the local economy. The
obvious proximity to the sea and the agri-
cultural fields inland ensure a fresh supply of
local ingredients for the town's bustling cafés
and restaurants. Not far out of town lies the
greenhouse production area of Hvammur,
and further north, near Kópasker, salmon
production and carrot farming.
Salka is one of the restaurants making a
name for itself and the region’s culinary tra-
ditions. Lunch consists of seafood soup and a
mixture of poached salted cod and mashed
potato, red onion and a punch of orange zest
topped with dill and Icelandic herbs, a twist
on the old classic Cod Brandade. A local-
ly-produced dark brown liquor, Haustsól
(‘Autumn Sun’), made with Icelandic herbs
like angelica and birch is served alongside.
The restaurant’s chef, Haukur Ákason, tells
me that for many young people like himself,
this is a summer job. Húsavík’s population
grows by 200-300 when students, among
others, head to the town to work during the
peak season and then head back to the capital
or further afield. In his culinary creations,
Haukur focuses on local ingredients. The
first harvest of mussels grown in the waters
of Skjálfandi will be on the menu next year,
By Zoë robErt Photos By áSlaug Snorradóttir
Nestled on the eastern shores of Skjálfandi bay, the small town
of Húsavík has carved out a reputation as the whale watching
capital of Europe. But, look closer, and you'll see that it is
also fast becoming a hub for local food and creativity.