Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.12.2009, Blaðsíða 25

JóLasmáKöKur
(yo!-la-smouw-koek-er)
See also: Dining
Jólasmákökur (“Christmas cookies”) are
an essential part of the Icelandic holiday
experience. Most households bake their own
cookies in the weeks leading up to Christmas,
making an average of 3–5 different types.
They are then consumed at Christmas
gatherings or while lounging about with ones
new presents. Some classic types include:
Piparkökur (ginger snaps”), Mömmukökur
(ginger snap-type cookies sandwiched around
white frosting), súkkulaðibitakökur (chocolate
chip cookies) and hálfmánar (rhubarb
preserves wrapped in dough), although the
varieties are endless.
JóLaTré
(yo!-la-tr-yeah!)
See also: Þorláksmessa,
Christmas presents
Icelanders’ Christmas
trees are usually
installed on December
23rd, with the actual
decorating taking place
on the 24th (although
this does differ between households). Various
organisations, such as the local rescue squads,
sell live trees to fund their operations, although
private companies also partake. Fake plastic
trees aren’t very popular, although some folks
prefer them.
KæsT sKaTa
(kjae-st skaaa-taaaa)
See also: Þorláksmessa
The consumption of kæst skata, or rotted skate,
on the 23rd of December is a holiday tradition
derived from the West Fjords of Iceland. The
dish—which many swear by, and others find
especially foul—is most often imbibed at
special skate gatherings around noon on the
23rd, and is often served along with potatoes,
butter, rye bread and shots of brennivín (most
West Fjords experts recommend drinking
milk with the skate, as the fish is “intoxicating
in and of itself”).
The skate is a chondrichyte, and therefore
ferments when allowed to rot, as its urine
is distributed through its f lesh and goes
through a chemical change over time.
They are in fact poisonous if eaten before
the fermentation process is complete. It is
fermented by throwing it in a box and letting
it lie for three weeks.
LaufaBrauð
(loi-fa-brau-eth)
See also: Aðventan
The making of laufabrauð, or “leaf-bread,”
is usually a family-affair taking place early
in December. People gather together to cut
intricate patterns into this deep-fried, thin
flatbread, which is then enjoyed as a tasty
snack to accompany any Christmas event or
meal. It goes exceedingly well with butter.
nýársDagur
(knee-ouwrs-da-guer)
See also: Drinking
Icelanders like to spend most of New Year’s Day
feeling hung-over and sorry for themselves.
As the evening approaches, many will start
pulling themselves together and dressing up
for New Year’s Day banquets or parties that
have grown popular lately. Others will stay in
watching DVDs and complaining.
oPenIng Hours
See also: Commerce, eating out
If you are touring in Iceland for the holiday
season, we can only hope someone told you
of Iceland’s antiquated opening hours for that
time. You will not have much luck locating
open restaurants—or open anything-else —
during Christmas or on New Year’s. Check out
our holiday listings guide for info on places
that are actually open and happy to serve you.
PresenTs
See also: Commerce, Aðfangadagur, jólatré
Of course Xmas is all about the presents, and a
lot of debt is incurred during the season, even
though we’ve yet to discern completely how
the act of spreading goodwill through gifts
is affected by the full impact of the Kreppa.
There are no specific guidelines for Xmas gift
giving in Iceland, but a good rule of thumb is
to avoid being extravagant in your gift choices,
unless maybe something extravagant is called
for or expected on the other end.
Generally most folks tend to stick with
bestowing presents upon their immediate
family and loved ones, although some like to
spread the joy to their entire group of friends.
In any case, there’s nothing wrong with
asking. Xmas presents are stored under the
Xmas tree until they’re due to be opened.
reLIgIon anD
CHurCH
Even though around
80% of them are
enrolled in the State
Church, Icelanders have
never been known to be
particularly enthusiastic
churchgoers or
observers of religious
customs. Indeed, Christmas isn’t a particularly
religious holiday in Iceland. However, many
folks like to attend Church services and
concerts during the holidays, particularly on
the 24th and the 31st. Check with your tourist
information centre for complete church
listings.
The ringing of the church bells of
Reykjavík’s Lutheran Cathedral is broadcast
on all major television and radio stations
throughout the country promptly at 18:00
on Christmas Eve, at which point everyone
wishes each other a Merry Christmas and sits
down to eat.
reTurnIng gIfTs
See also: Commerce
Exchanging one’s Xmas gifts in lieu of
something more desirable is a common
practice in Iceland. Most stores will accept
returns until the second week of January,
although policies differ.
rJÚPur
(ryooe-purr)
See also: Jólamatur
Wild fowl rjúpur, or ptarmigan, are a popular
main course for many families Christmas
meals. The small birds can be delicious if
handled properly, and have a rich, gamey sort
of taste. The Grapevine recommends trying
some if you have the chance.
sanTa CLaus
See also: Jólasveinar
We have no need for your international big,
fat, jolly, capitalist greed-mongering Coca Cola
Santa Claus in Iceland, as we have thirteen of
our own that are much cooler. He still makes
an appearance from time to time. Oh we like
him fine enough, he’s a jolly good fellow and
all.
vaCaTIons
Icelanders usually take pretty hefty Xmas
vacations, with December 24, 25 and 26 all
being legal holidays, as well as December 31st
and January 1st. A lot of folks actually take Dec
23–Jan 2 off entirely—so don’t expect a lot to
get done during the Xmas season.
ÞorLáKsmessa
(thoer-louwks-mess-a)
See also: Kæst skata, commerce
In celebration of one of only two Icelandic
saints, St. Þorlákur, Icelanders eat fermented
skate, which preferably is swallowed with
copious amounts of Icelandic Brennivín
schnapps. Then, they will traditionally gather
on the shopping street Laugavegur to do some
last minute shopping (although some do the
bulk of their shopping on that day), drink
Christmas beer or hot chocolate and have a
merry ol’ time. Also, this is traditionally the
day that children are allowed to decorate the
Christmas tree.
ÞreTTánDInn
(thu-rhett-ouwn-din-n)
January 6 is Þrettándinn (“the thirteenth”),
the thirteenth and final day of Christmas
according to Icelandic tradition. The event is
celebrated with torch processions, bonfires,
fireworks, and the king and queen of the
hidden people traditionally join the festivities.
Back in olden times, it was a scary time to be
out and about, as the hidden people can be
surprisingly sinister.
9The reykjavík grapevine Xmas special spectacular 2009
Issue 18
JóLasveInar
(yo!-la-svain-er)
See also: Christmas stockings, Santa Claus
The Icelandic Jólasveinar (Yule Lads) have little
to do with the international Santa Claus. They
are descended from trolls, and were originally
bogeymen used to scare children. During this
century they have mellowed, and sometimes
don red suits. Their number varied in old
times from one region of Iceland to another.
The number thirteen is first seen in a poem
about Grýla (the Lads’ mother) in the 18th
century, and their names were published by
Jón Árnason in his folklore collection in 1862.
About 60 different names of Yuletide Lads are
known. They visit the National Museum on
each of the 13 days before Christmas.
On December 12 the Yuletide Lads begin
to come to town. The first is Stekkjastaur
(Sheepfold Stick), who would try to drink the
milk from the farmers’ ewes.
On December 13 Giljagaur (Gully Oaf)
arrives. Before the days of milking machines,
he would sneak into the cowshed and skim the
froth off the pails of milk.
The Lad who arrives on December 14 is
Stúfur (Shorty) who, as his name implies,
is on the small side. He was also known as
Pönnuskefill (pan-scraper), as he scraped
scraps of food off the pans.

On December 15, Þvörusleikir (Spoon-licker)
comes down from the mountains. He would
steal the wooden spoon that had been used for
stirring. When he visits the National Museum,
he goes looking for wooden spoons.
On December 16, Pottasleikir (Pot-licker)
comes visiting. He tried to snatch pots that
had not been washed, and lick the scraps from
them.
Askasleikir (Bowl-licker) arrives on
December 17. He hid under beds and if
someone put his wooden food-bowl in the
floor, he grabbed it and licked it clean.
Hurðaskellir (Door-slammer) comes on
December 18. He is an awfully noisy fellow,
who is always slamming doors and keeping
people awake.
The Lad who is expected on December 19
is called Skyrgámur (Curd Glutton), because
he loves skyr (milk curd) so much that he
sneaks into the pantry and gobbles up all the
skyr from the tub there.

Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Pilferer) comes on
December 20. He loves sausages of all kinds,
and steals them whenever he can.
On December 21, Gluggagægir (Peeper)
arrives. He is not as greedy as some of his
brothers, but awfully nosy, peeping through
windows and even stealing toys he likes the
look of.
On December 22 Gáttaþefur (Sniffer)
comes calling. He has a big nose, and he loves
the smell of cakes being baked for Christmas.
He often tries to snatch a cake or two for
himself.
December 22 was sometimes called
hlakkandi (looking forward), because the
children had started looking forward to
Christmas.
On 23 December, St. Þorlákur’s Day,
Ketkrókur (Meat Hook) arrives. He adores all
meat. In olden days he would lower a hook
down the kitchen chimney and pull up a
leg of lamb hanging from a rafter, or a bit of
smoked lamb from a pan, as smoked lamb was
traditionally cooked on St. Þorlákur’s Day.
Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar) comes on
Christmas Eve, December 24. In olden times,
candlelight was the brightest light available.
Candles were so rare and precious that it was
a treat for children to be given a candle at
Christmas. And poor Candle Beggar wanted
one too.
During the thirteen days before Christmas,
the National Museum presents actors dressed
as the old-school Jólasveinar. They show up
around 11 AM each day. National Museum,
Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík. Tel. 530 2200.
(By Paul F Nikolov. Originally appeared in issue
16/2005. Santa Claus drawings are also from the
same issue)
Since there is a small chance that some of you reading this are tourists stranded in
Iceland over the Holidays, and since pretty much all of Iceland shuts down during
said Holidays, we decided to compile a little list for you, detailing what’s actually open
during the season, and when. We tried to make it as comprehensive as we could, but
of course we might have missed something. We are not perfect robots after all.
A good rule of thumb to go by when planning any of your Holiday activities is you’re
your research. Go by the assumption that any place of service or commerce is closed,
then call up the ones you’re interested in checking out to make sure – this will help
you avoid disappointment.
The Official Tourist Information Centre should have the most up-to-date
information out there, so be sure to pay them a visit.
Buses
Call 354.540.2700
reykjavík excursions:
24: Tours operating:
Golden Circle Tour and
Blue Lagoon Tour
Other days are operated
according to program
and schedule.
Iceland excursions:
24: Tours operating:
Golden Circle Classic,
Greater Area Reykjavík
Sightseeing, The Blue
Lagoon and Keflavík
airport and The Blue
Lagoon.
25: Tours operating:
Gullfoss & Geysir
Express, The Blue
Lagoon and Northern
Lights Mystery.
31: All tours operating
except: Blue Lagoon/
Viking Horse at 14:00,
Blue Lagoon at 16:15
and 16:30 and Northern
Lights at 20:00. There is
a special New Years Eve
tour entitled Bonfire and
Fireworks at 20:00.
Other days are operated
according to program
and schedule.
The official Tourist
Information Centre
(The Centre)
23: 9-18
24: 9-12
25: Closed
26: 10-14
31: 10-14
1: 9-18
The Blue Lagoon
23: 10-17
24: 10-13 (restaurant
closed)
25: 10-15 (restaurant
closed)
26: 10-20
31: 10-16
1: 10-20
Pools
árbæjarlaug:
24: 8-12:30
25: Closed
26: 12-18
31: 8-12
1: Closed
Breiðholtslaug:
24: 6:30-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: 06:30-12:30
1: Closed
grafarvogslaug:
24: 06:30-13
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: 06:30-13
1: Closed
Laugardalslaug:
TBA in December
sundhöll reykjavíkur:
24: 06:30-12:30
25: Closed
26: 10-18
31: 06:30-12:30
1: Closed
vesturbæjarlaug:
23: 06:30-18:00
24: 8-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: 8-12:30
1: Closed
museums
/galleries
The Culture House
24: Exhibitions and shop
are open from 11 to 15.
The café is closed.
25: Closed.
26 to 30: Exhibitions and
shop are open from 11 to
17. The café is closed.
31: Exhibitions and shop
are open from 11 to 15.
The café is closed.
1: Exhibitions and shop
are open from 11 to 15.
The café is closed.
The reykjavík art
museum: Hafnarhús,
Kjarvalsstaðir and
ásmundarsafn
24, 25, 31, 1: Closed
gerðuberg Cultural
Center
23: 13-16
24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 1:
Closed
Kling & Bang
24, 25, 26, 31, 1: Closed
gallery águst
24, 31: Closed
stores:
Lyf & Heilsa Drugstore,
egilsgata 3, 101
reykjavík
24: 9-12
25, 26, 27: Closed
31: 9-12
1, 2, 3: Closed
Lyf & Heilsa Drugstore,
Hringbraut 121, 107
reykjavík
24: 10-12
25, 26: Closed
31: 10-12
1: Closed
Kringlan shopping
mall:
23: 10-23
24: 10-13
25, 26: Closed
31: 10-13
1: Closed
10-11 grocery stores:
ALWAYS OPEN! - select
locations.
Bars that got
back to us
Prikið:
24: Closed
25: Open until midnight.
The english Pub:
24: 12-02:00
25: 12-06:00
26: 12-06:00
31: 12-06:00
1: 12-05:00
Cafe Paris:
24: 9-14.00
25: Closed
26-30: 9-01:00
31: 9-18:00
1: 12-01:00
restaurants
frequently
open During the
Holidays
Babalú
Open until 21:00
Christmas Day and Eve.
Closed after 18:00 New
Year´s Eve.
Bistró vox-Hotel
nordica
Open every day.
Café Paris
Open until 20:00, New
Year´s Eve.
fiskfélagið/The fish
Company
31, 1: Open as usual
geysir Bistro Bar
24, 25: Closed
26:12-22:30
31: Closed
1: 17-22:30
Grillhúsíð
24, 25: Closed
26: Opens at 14
31: Closed
1: Opens at 16
fjalakötturinn-Hotel
reykjavik Centrum
Open for Dinner
Christmas day and eve
with reservations.
Icelandic fish & Chips:
Open New Year´s Eve
and Day.
íslenski Barinn
24: 11:30-16:00
25: Closed
26: 15:00-03:00
31: New Years Eve Menu
from 18:00
1: 15:00-03:00
Kaffi sólon
Open New Year´s eve
and day.
Tabasco´s
Open 24th, 25th and
26th.
Lounge 1919
Open 24th, 25th and 26th
of December. Open New
Year´s eve until 21:00 and
New Year´s day.
restaurant & Bar Hotel
101
Open New Year´s Eve
and Day.
Tapas Bar
Closed 24-26 December
Closed 1 January
Open all other days
(Including December 31)
Xmas | Opening Hours
Holiday Opening
Hours Your Grapevine Guide
Compiled by michael Zelenko and Louise Petersson