Reykjavík Grapevine - 21.09.2012, Blaðsíða 16

Reykjavík Grapevine - 21.09.2012, Blaðsíða 16
16 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2012 Food | YUM! Rows of small circular tubs in an ar- ray of colours are a familiar sight to visitors who stop off at an Icelan- dic supermarket and head straight to the dairy refrigerator. Despite the fact that Iceland’s fabled skyr is older than the sagas (in Gret- tir’s Saga, Auðunn hurls a bag of skyr at his adversary Grettir the Strong), the fresh acid-set cheese gorged ad nauseam by indulgent new arrivals has no formal status as a “product of Iceland” anywhere in the world. That, however, could soon change, if dairy industry lead- ers have their way. A new report commissioned by Ice- land’s Association of Dairy and Meat Producers (“Samtök mjólkur- og kjöt- vinnslufyrirtækja,” SMK) is urging the Icelandic government to set in motion an agreement with the European Union that could see skyr given “protected geographical indication” status, label- ling the product as Iceland-made and preventing foreign imitators from using the “skyr” name. Increasing exports The report, authored by Einar Karl Haraldsson, founding editor of Frét- tablaðið and current chair of Inspired By Iceland, argues that geographical protected status would strengthen ex- ports whilst boosting domestic produc- tion by establishing Iceland-made skyr as the gold standard product. Skyr is gaining popularity abroad, especially in other Nordic countries, with exports bringing millions of krónur back to producers every year, but Einar says foreign production compromises the integrity of the Icelandic brand name. “The name ‘skyr’ could have the same fate as ‘Geysir’ or other Icelandic names that become generic, general names used falsely for other products,” he states. He cites Parmesan cheese as a key example, which is trademarked in Italy, manufactured in a limited area in the north of the country and therefore la- belled with protected designation of origin status in the European Union. “Italian farmers had to fight hard for this,” he adds. “Elsewhere, in Canada or the USA for example, imitations can still be made.” European integration Brussels insists that an agreement on protected status must be reached as part of Iceland’s prospective entry to the European Union; however it is not tied to the country’s membership. Nor- way, like Iceland, is not a member of the EU, but it has nonetheless reached a special agreement, whereby it recog- nises the geographical status of over a thousand products in return for nine- teen of its products being protected across the continent, including Har- danger fruits, stockfish and Norwegian wild sheep. “Norway has a special agreement which means EU products can’t be imitated, and nor can theirs in Europe,” Einar says. “A Norwegian firm wouldn’t be able to produce a Parma ham imita- tion and call it the real thing.” Some efforts across Europe to se- cure protected status have not been met with success. Manufacturers in the English West Country attempted to guarantee the geographical status of Cheddar cheese, which takes its name from a village in Somerset. As the name has long been widely outside the re- gion, only cheddar produced from local milk in the area with the name ‘West Country Farmhouse Cheddar’ carries protected designation of origin. Einar concedes that Iceland-made skyr may face the same fate, forced to carry the title ‘Icelandic Skyr’ if it is to be enjoy protected designation of origin status. Consumer choice At the same time, he says there is a risk that preventing foreign producers from using the name ‘skyr’ could limit its ability to permeate markets outside Iceland. Although Einar says this might be a concern for producers, he believes exporters benefit by capturing the at- tention of consumers abroad with rec- ognised specialities. And ultimately Einar insists that sav- ing our skyr is worth the effort: “Con- sumers like to buy produce that has a genuine local connection. Today many people tend to prefer original authentic local fare to goods that are mass-pro- duced by big global corporations. And this will benefit farmers back in Iceland too.” Sigurgeir Þorgeirsson of Iceland’s Ministry of Fisheries and Agriculture says that a working group is being formed to prepare legislation to nego- tiate terms with the EU. “The working group will first examine the pros and cons. If the outcome is positive as we expect, a bill will be presented to Parlia- ment,” he explains. “The working group will propose the form of legislation, but they will look carefully at existing EU regulations in crafting an Icelandic law.” In addition to skyr, Icelandic lamb and butter may also secure protected status as a product of Iceland. The red, white and blue of the Icelandic stan- dard could be a fixture on produce down every aisle in the supermarkets of Reykjavík before long. Oh No You Don’t! Not Our Skyr! Agricultural leaders want Icelandic produce protected across Europe Words Mark O'Brien Photo Alísa Kalyanova “ The name ‘skyr’ could have the same fate as ‘Geysir’ or other Icelandic names that become ge- neric, general names used falsely for other products„ Pictured gorging on skyr is our one and only Mark O'Brien! He looks like he's loving it. And he should; it's yummy! HEY! Check out our new shop and buy our stuff! www.stuff.kimirecords.com

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