Reykjavík Grapevine - 21.09.2012, Qupperneq 16

16
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 15 — 2012
Food | YUM!
Rows of small circular tubs in an ar-
ray of colours are a familiar sight to
visitors who stop off at an Icelan-
dic supermarket and head straight
to the dairy refrigerator. Despite
the fact that Iceland’s fabled skyr
is older than the sagas (in Gret-
tir’s Saga, Auðunn hurls a bag of
skyr at his adversary Grettir the
Strong), the fresh acid-set cheese
gorged ad nauseam by indulgent
new arrivals has no formal status
as a “product of Iceland” anywhere
in the world. That, however, could
soon change, if dairy industry lead-
ers have their way.

A new report commissioned by Ice-
land’s Association of Dairy and Meat
Producers (“Samtök mjólkur- og kjöt-
vinnslufyrirtækja,” SMK) is urging the
Icelandic government to set in motion
an agreement with the European Union
that could see skyr given “protected
geographical indication” status, label-
ling the product as Iceland-made and
preventing foreign imitators from using
the “skyr” name.
Increasing exports
The report, authored by Einar Karl
Haraldsson, founding editor of Frét-
tablaðið and current chair of Inspired
By Iceland, argues that geographical
protected status would strengthen ex-
ports whilst boosting domestic produc-
tion by establishing Iceland-made skyr
as the gold standard product.
Skyr is gaining popularity abroad,
especially in other Nordic countries,
with exports bringing millions of krónur
back to producers every year, but Einar
says foreign production compromises
the integrity of the Icelandic brand
name. “The name ‘skyr’ could have the
same fate as ‘Geysir’ or other Icelandic
names that become generic, general
names used falsely for other products,”
he states.
He cites Parmesan cheese as a key
example, which is trademarked in Italy,
manufactured in a limited area in the
north of the country and therefore la-
belled with protected designation of
origin status in the European Union.
“Italian farmers had to fight hard for
this,” he adds. “Elsewhere, in Canada
or the USA for example, imitations can
still be made.”
European integration
Brussels insists that an agreement on
protected status must be reached as
part of Iceland’s prospective entry to
the European Union; however it is not
tied to the country’s membership. Nor-
way, like Iceland, is not a member of the
EU, but it has nonetheless reached a
special agreement, whereby it recog-
nises the geographical status of over a
thousand products in return for nine-
teen of its products being protected
across the continent, including Har-
danger fruits, stockfish and Norwegian
wild sheep.
“Norway has a special agreement
which means EU products can’t be
imitated, and nor can theirs in Europe,”
Einar says. “A Norwegian firm wouldn’t
be able to produce a Parma ham imita-
tion and call it the real thing.”
Some efforts across Europe to se-
cure protected status have not been
met with success. Manufacturers in
the English West Country attempted to
guarantee the geographical status of
Cheddar cheese, which takes its name
from a village in Somerset. As the name
has long been widely outside the re-
gion, only cheddar produced from local
milk in the area with the name ‘West
Country Farmhouse Cheddar’ carries
protected designation of origin. Einar
concedes that Iceland-made skyr may
face the same fate, forced to carry the
title ‘Icelandic Skyr’ if it is to be enjoy
protected designation of origin status.
Consumer choice
At the same time, he says there is a
risk that preventing foreign producers
from using the name ‘skyr’ could limit
its ability to permeate markets outside
Iceland. Although Einar says this might
be a concern for producers, he believes
exporters benefit by capturing the at-
tention of consumers abroad with rec-
ognised specialities.
And ultimately Einar insists that sav-
ing our skyr is worth the effort: “Con-
sumers like to buy produce that has a
genuine local connection. Today many
people tend to prefer original authentic
local fare to goods that are mass-pro-
duced by big global corporations. And
this will benefit farmers back in Iceland
too.”
Sigurgeir Þorgeirsson of Iceland’s
Ministry of Fisheries and Agriculture
says that a working group is being
formed to prepare legislation to nego-
tiate terms with the EU. “The working
group will first examine the pros and
cons. If the outcome is positive as we
expect, a bill will be presented to Parlia-
ment,” he explains. “The working group
will propose the form of legislation,
but they will look carefully at existing
EU regulations in crafting an Icelandic
law.”
In addition to skyr, Icelandic lamb
and butter may also secure protected
status as a product of Iceland. The red,
white and blue of the Icelandic stan-
dard could be a fixture on produce
down every aisle in the supermarkets
of Reykjavík before long.
Oh No You Don’t! Not Our Skyr! Agricultural leaders
want Icelandic produce protected across Europe
Words
Mark O'Brien
Photo
Alísa Kalyanova
“
The name ‘skyr’ could
have the same fate as
‘Geysir’ or other Icelandic
names that become ge-
neric, general names used
falsely for other products„
Pictured gorging on skyr is our one and only Mark O'Brien! He looks like he's
loving it. And he should; it's yummy!
HEY! Check out our new shop and buy our stuff!
www.stuff.kimirecords.com