Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.12.2015, Qupperneq 62

The Reykjavík Grapevine X-mas Special6
The Icelandic Jólasveinar (Yule
Lads) have little to do with the in-
ternational Santa Claus. They are
descended from trolls, and were
originally bogeymen who scared
children. During this century they
have mellowed, and sometimes
don red suits. Their number var-
ied in old times from one region
of Iceland to another. The number
thirteen was first seen in a poem
about Grýla (the Lads’ mother) in
the 18th century, and their names
were published by Jón Árnason in
his folklore collection in 1862.
On December 12, the Yule Lads
begin to come to town one by one
on each of the thirteen days before
Christmas.
The first is Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote
Clod), who tries to drink the milk from
the farmers’ ewes.
On December 13, Giljagaur (Gully
Gawk) visits. Before the days of milking
machines, he would sneak into the cow-
shed and skim the froth off the pails of
milk.
Next to turn up is Stúfur (Stubby) on
December 14. His name implies that he
is on the small side. He is also known as
Pönnuskefill (pan-scraper), as he scraped
scraps of food off the pans.
On December 15, Þvörusleikir (Spoon-
Licker) comes down from the mountains.
He steals wooden spoons that have been
used for stirring. When he visits the
National Museum, he goes looking for
wooden spoons.
On December 16, Pottasleikir (Pot-
Licker) comes visiting. He tries to snatch
unwashed pots, and licks the scraps from
them.
Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker) arrives on
December 17. He hides under beds and
if someone puts his wooden food-bowl on
the floor, he grabs it and licks it clean.
Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer) barges
in on December 18. He is an awfully noisy
fellow, who is always slamming doors and
keeping people awake.
The Lad who is expected on December
19 is called Skyrgámur (Skyr Gobbler),
because he loves skyr so much that he
sneaks into the pantry and gobbles up all
the skyr.
Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Swiper) as-
cends on December 20. He loves sausages
of all kinds, and steals them whenever he
can.
On December 21, Gluggagægir (Win-
dow-Peeper) arrives. He is not as greedy
as some of his brothers, but awfully
nosy to the point of voyeurism, peeping
through windows and even stealing toys
he likes the looks of.
On December 22 Gáttaþefur (Doorway-
Sniffer) comes calling. He has a big nose,
and loves the smell of cakes being baked
for Christmas. He often tries to snatch a
cake or two for himself.
December 22 is sometimes called
hlakkandi ("looking forward"), because
the children have started looking for-
ward to Christmas.
On December 23, St. Þorlákur’s Day,
Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook) descends. He
adores all meat. In olden days he would
lower a hook down the kitchen chimney
and pull up a leg of lamb hanging from a
rafter, or a bit of smoked lamb from a pan,
as smoked lamb was traditionally cooked
on St. Þorlákur’s Day.
Kertasníkir (Candle-Beggar) is the last
to show up on Christmas Eve, December
24. In olden times, candlelight was the
brightest light available. Candles were so
rare and precious that it was a treat for
children to be given a candle at Christ-
mas. And poor Candle Beggar wanted
one too.
During the thirteen days before
Christmas, the National Museum pres-
ents actors dressed as the old-school
Jólasveinar. They show up around 11 am
each day. National Museum, Suðurgata
41, 101 Reykjavík. Tel. 530 2200. www.
thjodminjasafn.is
Originally appeared in issue 16/2005.
Jólasveinar
(yo!-la-sway-ner)
Holiday
Opening
Hours: Your
Grapevine
Guide
Compiled by ALEXANDER DE RIDDER, HREFNA
BJÖRG GYLFADÓTTIR and REBECCA CONWAY
If you are a tourist stranded in Iceland over
the holiday season, you may find yourself
hard pressed to come up with activities to
engage in, as the country practically shuts
down in late December (admittedly, this has
been changing along with the increased tour-
ist influx). Most shops are closed, tour opera-
tors generally run a limited schedule, and
some of our favourite restaurants close down
(although, again, this has been slowly chang-
ing for the better). Rather than let you depend
on dumb luck, we at the Grapevine compiled
a list of what’s open and when for your conve-
nience. Rest assured, there are things to do in
Reykjavík over Christmas. You just have to
be smart about it, and manage your expecta-
tions somewhat.
We’ve tried to make sure this guide is as
comprehensive as possible, but there may be
changes from when we print the issue. For a
complete list, log on to www.grapevine.is—
seriously, our interns are amazing and they
compiled opening hours for every goddamn
nook and cranny in the greater Reykjavík
area.
Travel
Strætó - Public City
Bus
Dec 23: Regular
schedule
Dec 24: Saturday
schedule until 15:00
Dec 25: No service
Dec 26: Sunday
schedule
Dec 27: Saturday
schedule
Dec 28: No service
Dec 31: Regular
schedule
Tourist Information
Center, Aðalstræti
Dec 23: 08:00-19:00
Dec 24: 08:00-14:00
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: 10:00-14:00
Dec 31: 08:00-16:00
Jan 1: 12:00-19:00
Blue Lagoon
Dec 23:10:00-17:00
Dec 24:10:00-13:00
Dec 25:10:00-16:00
Dec 26: 09:00-20:00
Dec 31: 09:00-17:00
Jan 1:09:00-20:00
Pools
Árbæjarlaug
Dec 23: 06:30-18:00
Dec 24: 08:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: 12:00-18:00
Dec 31: 08:00-12:30
Jan 1: Closed
Breiðholtslaug
Dec 23: 06:30-18:00
Dec 24: 08:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 31: 08:00-12:30
Jan 1: Closed
Grafarvogslaug
Dec 23: 06:30-18:00
Dec 24: 08:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 31: 08:00-12:30
Jan 1: Closed
Klébergslaug
Dec 23: 11:00-15:00
Dec 24: 10:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 31: 10:00-12:30
Jan 1: Closed
Laugardalslaug
Dec 23: 06:30-18:00
Dec 24: 08:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: 12:00-18:00
Dec 31: 08:00-12:30
Jan 1: 12:00-18:00
Sundhöllin
Dec 23: 06:30-18:00
Dec 24: 08:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 31: 08:00-12:30
Jan 1: Closed
Vesturbæjarlaug
Dec 23: 06:30-18:00
Dec 24: 08:00-12:30
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 31: 08:00-12:30
Jan 1: Closed
Museums/Galleries
The following muse-
ums are open on the
following days:
Dec 24: The National
Museum (11:00-
17:00), The Settle-
ment Exhibition
(09:00-14:00)
Dec 25: The Culture
House (10:00-14:00),
The National Mu-
seum (10:00-14:00)
Dec 26: Ásmundar-
safn, Hafnarhúsið,
Kjarvalsstaðir, The
Culture House, The
Maritime Museum,
The National Mu-
seum, The Settle-
ment Exhibition,
The Phallological
Museum
Dec 31: Hafnarhúsið
(10:00-14:00), Reyk-
javík Museum of
Photography (10:00-
14:00), The Culture
House (10:00-14:00),
The Maritime Muse-
um (10:00-14:00), The
National Museum
(11:00-14:00), The
Settlement Museum
(09:00-14:00), The
Phallological Mu-
seum (11:00-16:00)
Jan 1: Hafnarhúsið
(13:00-17:00), The
Culture House
(10:00-14:00), The
National Museum
(10:00-14:00), The
Settlement Exhibi-
tion (12:00-20:00)
Shopping
Kringlan – Shopping
Centre
Dec 23: 10:00-23:00
Dec 24: 10:00-13:00
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 27: 10:00-18:00
Dec 28: 13:00-18:00
Dec 31: 10:00-13:00
Jan 1: Closed
Laugavegur & the
downtown area
Dec 23: 10:00-23:00
Dec 24: 10:00-12:00
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 27: 11:00-16:00
Dec 28: 11:00-18:00
Dec 31: 10:00-12:00
Jan 1: Closed
Smáralind – Shop-
ping Centre
Dec 23: 11:00-23:00
Dec 24: 10:00-13:00
Dec 25: Closed
Dec 26: Closed
Dec 27: 11:00-18:00
Dec 28: 13:00-18:00
Dec 31: 11:00-13:00
Jan 1: Closed