Reykjavík Grapevine - 16.06.2016, Side 62

If you look south over Sker-
jafjörður, the inlet that frames
Reykjavík’s south coast, a striking
collection of red-roofed houses
might catch your eye, just across
the water. I see this view every
day as I wind around the domestic
airport on my running route. For
some reason, the distant cluster of
buildings captured my imagina-
tion—what started as an interest
soon evolved into an obsession,
and it became my goal to see them
up close.
Imagine my surprise when I
learned that the red-roofed houses
were in fact Bessastaðir, the offi-
cial residence of the President of
Iceland. It’s an estate that sprawls
along a peninsula next to Álf-
tanes, a town just fifteen minutes
from downtown Reykjavík. The
buildings are surrounded by green
fields and farmland, and its loca-
tion offers stunning views of the
city. It would be a beautiful spot
to spend a sunny day, but for one
fact—it’s closed to the everyday
public.
Massive flagpole
When we drove out to Bessastaðir,
I was surprised by how understat-
ed it is. It’s a simple set of build-
ings with red roofs just a few me-
tres behind the red-roofed church,
which is itself just a few metres
from where the public road ends.
On a grey day, the estate felt swad-
dled in a silence and stillness that
was broken only by the sounds of
the many bird species that also
call the property home. There are
no signs to indicate its political
significance, and no plaque that
describes the history of the home
or the church. If it weren’t for the
massive flagpole, you’d be excused
for thinking it was just another
farm on the edge of the city.
If this were any other country,
there would likely be much fanfare
about the official residence of its
head of state. Maybe they’d try to
profit off tourists eager to sidle up
next to the political elite, or maybe
they’d erect a theme park along the
water. But, in true Icelandic fash-
ion, someone somewhere down
the line decided even the president
deserves their privacy.
Stay off the lawn
Bessastaðir has been an impor-
tant location since long before the
advent of the presidency. The first
mention of the farm at Bessastaðir
is in Íslendinga Saga, written by
Sturla Þórðarson in the thirteenth
century. The Saga claims that the
property was owned by Snorri
Sturluson, the famous writer and
lawmaker. After Snorri’s murder
in 1241, the site became the seat
of governing powers from Norway
and Denmark.
However, even before it was a
farm and residence, it’s believed
that Bessastaðir was the site of a
church since around the year 1000
AD, shortly after the settlement
of Iceland. At Bessastaðir today,
the church is the only place on
the property that allows walk-up
visitors. A sign on the lawn warns
people not to get too close to the
official residence behind it.
Elections to determine who
will be living behind the closed
doors of Bessastaðir for the next
four years will be held on June 25.
As for me, I’ll be keeping my eyes
on those red roofs from the other
side of the water.
SHARE & LINKS: gpv.is/bes
“There are no signs to indicate its politi-
cal significance... if it weren’t for the
massive flagpole, you’d be excused for
thinking it was a farm.”
The Closed Doors
Of Bessastaðir
Words ISAAC WÜRMANN Photos ART BICNICK
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