Reykjavík Grapevine - 24.05.2019, Page 44

ROAD TRIP
Látrabjarg
Words & Photos: John Rogers
Tucked away in the southernmost
region of the Westfjords lies the
small town of Patreksfjörður—a
peaceful fishing town of around
700 inhabitants, and a perfect hub
for exploring the lower reaches of
the region. On the peninsula right
across the fjords lies a rugged dirt
track that leads past unexpected
sights, a strange museum, a red
beach, and finally to the towering
and spectacular Látrabjarg bird
cliffs—one of Iceland’s most wild
and windswept viewpoints.
Stay:
Fosshótel Westfjords
The Fosshotel chain has reliably
comfortable hotels dotted all
around Iceland, and the Westfjords
branch is no exception. The rooms
are crisply decorated, with soft
beds and windows looking out over
the water. The bar has a happy hour
from 5-7pm every day, and the res-
taurant serves tasty meals at night,
and a sumptuous buffet breakfast.
Visit:
Húsið Creative Space
Before you leave town, stop at the
Húsið creative space for coffee. It
hosts a monthly exhibition pro-
gramme with accompanying artist
talks, also selling local handicrafts,
Reykjavík Roasters coffee, and an
assortment of interesting posters
and design objects. If you fall in
love with the town and decide to
move to Patreksfjörður, you could
also hire a desk in the coworking
space on the second floor.
Stop:
Garðar BA 64
This somewhat spectral ship sits
landlocked on a beach off route 612,
helplessly jutting up from the sand.
Once the largest steel ship in Ice-
land, it was retired in 1981, and was
jammed into the sand rather than
being scuttled, as was the tradition
at the time. Information plaques
fill you in on the ship’s long and
storied life.
Visit:
Minjasafn Egils
Ólafssonar
As you trundle towards Látrabjarg
to spot some puffins, you’ll pass
this curious-looking museum. In-
side, there’s a treasure trove of local
history curated by the late Egill
Ólafsson, a local man and avid col-
lector of everything from seal hunt-
ing blades to boats, antique pros-
thetics and fishing equipment, and
even two spindles from the Viking
era. It’s a fascinating glimpse into
the hardships of Westfjordian life
over the centuries.
Hike:
Rauðisandur
On the south side of the peninsula
lies Rauðisandur, a long beach of
reddish sand. Over a rough moun-
tain trail, the widescreen view is
something to see. In the summer,
there’s a café and campsite, and
accessible hiking trails into the
surrounding mountains; in winter,
however, the treacherous road is
best avoided.
Must-See:
Látrabjarg
The final stop is Látrabjarg. At
the westernmost point of Iceland,
the landmass ends dramatically,
with high, tilted spikes of turf
leaning away from the sea, creat-
ing an 11km stretch of dizzyingly
high cliffs. Looking down to the
churning ocean, you’ll see that the
rocks are alive with seabirds, from
common gulls to razorbills, oyster-
catchers, and puffins, who visit en
masse each year to nest during the
summer months.
Swim: Birkimelur
Swimming Pool
If you’re heading back to Reykjavík,
keep a lookout for the Birkimelur
Swimming Pool. The outdoor pool
on Route 60 has minimal facili-
ties, but a beautiful sea view. You
never know your luck—if it’s early
morning or later in the evening,
you could have it all to yourself.
Travel Distance from Reykjavík: 392 km How to get there: Route One North, Route 60 & 62Car provided by: gocarrental.isAccommodation provided by: fosshotel.is
Don't look down, there are dangerous puffins there
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