Atlantica - 01.11.2000, Side 36

the remaining dough. Store in an air-tight container and
they will keep for a while, but honestly they taste best
hot from the pot, and are sinfully good when washed
down with ice-cold milk or dipped into piping hot coffee.
FAITHFUL TO FISH
No account of Icelandic holiday fare would be complete
without a mention of skate. The faithful were supposed
to fast on 23 December, which is dedicated to St
Thorlákur, bishop of Skálholt, who died on this date in
1193. But as things have evolved, this happens to be the
“Day of the skate”. Originally seen as a poor kind of
food – in stark contrast to the culinary delights of the
holidays – putrefied skate has gained a near-cult status
in Iceland. People flock to eat this special, foul-smelling
treat, and most restaurant serve it on St. Thorlákur’s
Day. The skate must be hung for some time to ripen, or
until kæst, before cooking – the quality of the meal is
judged by the strength of the ammonia stench. Such is
the odour that many households wait to boil their
smoked lamb until after the skate is cooked and served,
to get rid of the smell, while others resort to cooking the
fish on a propane stove in the garage to avoid stinking
the house out.
To cure skate, ray or a similar type of flatfish a local fish-
monger suggests the following method. Take the whole
34 A T L A N T I C A
A TASTE OF TRADITION
The infamous ogress
deserves more than
a passing mention
in Icelandic folklore
as the mother of the
Yuletide Lads.
Human living quarters, central Reykjavík.
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