Atlantica - 01.03.2001, Side 54

52 A T L A N T I C A
i-site❍
If there was any doubt in my mind that this restaurant was a traditional
affair it was swept away by the sight of the ornaments on the adjacent
windowsill: on one side a big-breasted mer-
maid in brass, and on the other an old military
cannon aimed roughly in the direction of the
sea siren’s head. Suitably portly owner and
chef, Úlfar Eysteinsson, explains that Thrír
Frakkar is primarily a fish restaurant and that
initially it was not a popular option with the
locals: “It was difficult for the first three years.
People said, ‘my son is a sailor, or my father is
a sailor, and if I want fish I can eat it at home’.” However, there has been
a swing in popular opinion, and outside the summer months their patron-
age is roughly a fifty-fifty balance between locals and visitors.
The brilliance of plokkfisk (mashed fish, potatoes and onions) with sweet
rye bread lies in its simplicity, although not all of the food is traditional.
Úlfar describes it as “putting old school ingredients into new clothes”.
Anyone who has never tasted fish-chins might like to try them here,
although Úlfar recommends that those unacquainted with cured shark
should avoid choosing it as a starter course. “If you’re not prepared for
the “stinky” foods, then they can put you off the rest of your meal,” he
explains. No need for trepidation, however, where his skyr cake is con-
cerned, since it is a distant relative of cheesecake. JMcC
Thrír Frakkar Hjá Úlfari, Baldursgata 14, 101 Reykjavík,
open Mon.–Fri. for lunch and dinner, Sat.–Sun. for dinner only,
tel. (+354) 552 3939. Best to book in advance, particularly if you require a
choice of smoking or non-smoking table.
Múlakaffi
Outside of the nation’s kitchens, Múlakaffi is one of the last
bastions of traditional Icelandic fare. The story of food
here in Iceland is more a tale of generous grub than fine
cuisine, which is hardly surprising when the climate is
taken into consideration. But don’t knock it, if you have a
genuine hunger on the go and want a decent run for your
money. At Múlakaffi the menu changes every day, so if
you’re hoping to taste some of Iceland’s culinary endan-
gered species, like bread soup or cocoa soup, it’s best to
give them a call in advance. Not on the tourist trail,
Múlakaffi is a bus trip away from downtown Reykjavík
although within walking distance of Hótel Esja; the restau-
rant’s regulars are locals, office workers and cab drivers.
For the brave and adventurous, it’s a guaranteed stop for
the traditional delicacies during the feast of Thorablót,
such as pickled lambs’ heads, or smoked lamb, cured
shark, or pickled ram’s testicles (I did say brave) and sweet
rye bread. And they’ll even dish it up for you in the tradi-
tional square, wooden plate or turg, if you book in
advance. Otherwise, if you’ve worked up a decent appetite
for something hot, fair and square with sauce aplenty, then
it’s just a few minutes away by bus from either terminal.
JMcC
Múlakaffi, Hallarmúli, 108 Reykjavík,
open daily 8 a.m.–9 p.m., tel. (+354) 553 7737. Thorablót food
available from 19 Jan.–20 Feb.
The Corner Cafés
When deciding to step out for a night of revelry in down-
town Reykjavík one question’s always asked: “Where
should we go?”
The logical starting point of any pub crawl is the corner
of Bankastræti and Ingólfsstræti, where the popular bars-
cum-cafés, Prikid and Hús Málarans, sit kiddie-corner
from one another.
Established in 1951, Prikid (The Stick) is one of Reykjavík’s
oldest cafés. History aside, mingling with this weekend
crowd are Iceland’s most talked about television stars.
And they look gorgeous. But hey, in the softness of
Prikid’s downstairs lighting even the non-celebrities look
beautiful. Rock on to the upstairs and the star-studded
crowd blends into a mixture of well dressed intellectuals
and neo-beatniks pushing back a few pints.
If a casual evening is on the menu, jaywalk to the chic
Hús Málarans (House of the Painter). Decorated with
metallic grey chairs and baby-blue walls, this cosy
café/restaurant is the perfect place to drink with friends.
With the enormous windows – which flood the floor with
light during the afternoons, customers can keep an eye
on the foot traffic passing by.
Don’t leave without heading upstairs to the Red Room,
where the DJ spins all types of music from jazz to rock. In
the Red Room, the pace quickens and this club-like
atmosphere makes it hard to believe that Hús Málarans
used to be a paint store. EW
Prikid, Bankastræti 12, 101 Reykjavík, open 7 a.m.–1 a.m.,
Fri. and Sat. 10 a.m.–4 a.m., tel. (+354) 551 3366.
Hús Málarans, Bankastræti 7A, 101 Reykjavík,
open 12 noon–1a.m., Fri. and Sat. 12 noon–3 a.m.
( or when the crowd thins), tel. (+354) 562 3232.
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