Atlantica - 01.01.2006, Side 47

AT L A N T I CA 45
Whether you are in Hong Kong, New York,
San Francisco – or anywhere else – you can’t go
wrong with these dim sum treats.
#1 Ha Gow
Shrimp Dumpling – the Classic. Made from
chopped raw shrimp and bamboo shoots, wrapped inside
a fine layer of dough and steamed. Get a good grip,
‘cause this one is slippery in the chopsticks.
#2 Siu Ma
You like pork and shrimp? Try this classic steamed
dumpling that mixes together the perfect surf and turf
combo, then wraps it all up in paper-thin dough.
#3 Cha Siu Bow
Steamed or baked roast pork buns. Cha Siu literally
means “roast pork,” and bow means “bun.” Not to be
missed. These are great in to-go boxes too for that long
ride or flight – just be sure to share!
#4 Fung Zau
Phoenix Talons. These are actually chicken feet that
are marinated and then steamed in a black bean sauce.
Not to be consumed if you have nightmares about
avian flu.
#5 Ma T’uan
These sesame seed balls are especially popular at
Chinese New Year. They are a doughy, bread-
filled with red bean paste, rolled in sesame seeds, and
deep-fried. Yum.
“The tea helps you digest the meal. It takes away the grease,” he said. “But
the main thing you should know is that there are four keys to basic dim
sum. Ha Gow, the shrimp dumplings, are the main key. Then there’s Siu
Ma, pork dumplings, chicken feet, and steamed pork spare ribs.”
I was curious to know about all my other favorites. What about baked
pork BBQ buns – sweet rolls filled with pork and onions?
“They should be eaten after savory plates,” said my new guide.
What about fried taro root? I wondered. “It’s good, but not as popular
as the main four,” Danny answered patiently.
Danny said all of my regulars were classics, but that the four he told me
about were key. “If a place doesn’t do those four well, then forget about it.
They don’t know dim sum.”
Considering I liked three out of the four classic dishes, I was feeling
pretty legit myself. Memories of my embarrassment with Spencer reced-
ed. But I was still unsettled by the idea that certain dim sum orders were
okay and others weren’t.
Closing the bill, I asked John Tam, the manager of Nice, for his
thoughts on what to order and what not to.
“I tell people dim sum is a little bit of everything,” he said. “You just
try a little bit and you can see if you like it. Not everybody is going to like
everything.”
And that is maybe the best advice this dim sum guide has to offer. a
“On any given weekend, in dim sum restaurants from Hong Kong to
London to the west coast of North America, you can find people wading
through the crowds for their favorite meal of the week.”
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