Iceland review - 2004, Qupperneq 63

REYKJAVÍK – PURE ENERGY / 61
NATURE’S SHOW
Whatever your reason for visiting Iceland,
the country’s nature always takes over.
More and more tourists are booking weekend-packages to Iceland in order to
sample Reykjavík’s energetic – sometimes hedonistic – nightlife. Despite the lure
of the city, it’s nearly impossible not to experience some sort of natural awaken-
ing, even while tramping through downtown Reykjavík. This capital is, as the
brochures like to remind us time and time again, “next door to nature.”
Alliterations aside (there’s one), the slogan is apropos. You can walk down
Lækjargarta on your way to the next bar, and Mt. Esja looms so close that it’s
almost possible to reach out and touch the upper peaks.
So why not go on an Esja walk? Reykjavík’s most
prominent landmark is only 20 minutes away by car
(or take bus #20). From the drop-off point at
Mógilsá, it’s roughly a two-hour climb up to the
summit. And you don’t need to bring along Sir
Edmund Hillary, a Sherpa and a yak to help you
ascend up for those picture-postcard views.
For less strenuous exercise, head to the Heidmörk
area. Here you’ll enjoy lava formations and rivers,
plus scores of Iceland’s tiny birch trees (some might
call them shrubs). Bring your rod and reel and fish
for trout in Ellidaárvatn lake.
One of the pleasures of living in Reykjavík is that
the sea surrounds much of the city. Strap on some
rollerblades and skate along the pathways that
wind around the shoreline. Make sure to roll out to
Grótta on the Seltjarnarnes peninsula, the western-
most point of the capital area. At low tide, take off
the blades and walk out to the lighthouse or, if it’s
summer, sit back and enjoy the view as the sun
melts low over the sea, then pops right back up
again.
While there are numerous natural wonders in and
around Reykjavík, it’s also important to know that
you can drive about 20 minutes outside of Reykjavík
and feel as if you’re in the middle of nowhere. One
must-stop along the nature trail is the Reykjanes
peninsula. Explore the jagged land on a guided
tour, or head out on your own. In addition to the
famous Blue Lagoon, check out the natural hot
springs in the Krýsuvík area or the myriad bird life
swarming around the Krýsuberg cliffs.
One of the most exciting ways to enjoy the natural
world surrounding Reykjavík is to go whale watch-
ing. Even the coldest-hearted cynics can’t help but
pause at the sight of a breaching humpback. Even if
the larger mammals remain shy and all you see are
a few minke whales, a whale safari will make your
visit to Reykjavík complete. And the fresh sea air is
the perfect tonic to purify the innards you polluted
with alcohol the night before.
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