Iceland review - 2004, Qupperneq 80

ICELAND REVIEW SUPPLEMENT / 78
LIFE IN THE LAVA
The town of Hafnarfjördur
Most tourists pass the town of Hafnarfjördur on their way to Reykjavík without
even noticing. But just because you have Reykjavík on your mind that doesn’t
mean you shouldn’t put Hafnarfjördur on your itinerary.
Nestled next to a quaint harbour, Hafnarfjördur has plenty to offer tourists:
nature, art, culture, sports, Viking folklore and let’s not forget the “huldufolk” –
the elves and trolls roaming about in the nooks and crannies of the surrounding
lava fields.
Crazy about Vikings
While the town hosts a Viking festival during the summer, every day is Viking day
in Hafnarfjördur.
For those who like to raise a sword while swilling beer from a ram’s horn, head
to Fjörukráin where the waitresses are decked out in Viking garb, and tradition-
al Viking food is served. If you are on your best behaviour, perhaps you too might
be able to invade and pillage like the Vikings of old.
After stuffing yourself on horse and mountain lamb, sleep the night away in
comfort at the Viking Hotel, a converted blacksmith’s workshop.
Don’t worry. Just because the rooms are named after Viking chiefs and pagan
gods, that doesn’t mean you’ll be sleeping under a damp sheepskin tent. All the
rooms have private bathroom, shower and even a TV.
Hidden people
It’s not every day that you can go on a walk in search of elves and trolls. The town
of Hafnarfjördur boasts Iceland’s largest population of “hidden people”, accord-
ing to town folklore. Where do all these “hidden people” live? Local clairvoyant
Erla Stefánsdóttir has produced a map to take along on a walking tour.
Don’t expect to spot any of the 20 different types of dwarfs, four types of
gnomes and the countless elves along the walk. Stefánsdóttir says that the “hid-
den people” can only be seen by those with “second sight”.
Ahh, there’s the rub. However, Sibba Karlsdóttir, who guides the tours, says that
every so often a tourist will spot one. Karlsdóttir, who describes herself as a bit
“elfish-looking”, has never seen one, but she knows people who have made eye
contact with an elf, so she has no reason to doubt they exist. Okidokie.
Regardless of what you believe, the one-to-two hour walk is a strange trip
through bizarre lava formations, quaint gardens, and an Alice-in-Wonderland-
type of park.
Outdoor adventure
It’s been said that you’ve never really experienced Iceland unless you’ve seen the
country on horseback. For those looking for adventure, head to Íshestar, Iceland’s
largest horse riding centre, located in Hafnarfjördur.
Okay, by now you’ve noticed that the horses are a bit smaller than your average
horse. Icelanders take great pride in their horses, so if
you’re going to snicker at the tiny horses, don’t let the
locals hear you. And whatever you do, please don’t
call them ponies.
From ponies (oops) horses to whales. If a whale-
watching trip is on your agenda (and it should be)
walk down to the harbour and board Húni II, a ship
that was once destined for a bonfire, but was restored
back to its former glory. There’s nothing quite like
seeing the world’s largest mammals up close. But
remember, the North Atlantic is not an aquarium, so
what you see depends upon nature. If the whales are
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