Iceland review - 2015, Qupperneq 27

ICELAND REVIEW 25
after passing the first road closure—access to the area
has been restricted since the eruption began in late
august—on the bumpy 88-km (54-mile) four-wheel-
drive track from Jökulsárdalur down to askja, the road starts
to deteriorate. With the onset of winter in mid-October, the
roads are starting to be covered in snow. We ford several riv-
ers before arriving at the checkpoint—a shipping container
converted into living quarters—in mid-afternoon. Here
the search and rescue volunteers on duty check our permit.
Getting access to the site is difficult so they don’t get a lot of
traffic. With the snow making it even more arduous to reach
the site, we’re told we’re the first journalists to visit in sev-
eral days. The volunteers find ways to pass the time during
their six-day shifts, like by practicing archery and feeding
the wild foxes that have turned up on their doorstep. “and
if anyone tries to get through without a permit…” Sveinn
Óskarsson jokes, gesturing to the bows and arrows.
as we get closer, signs of the eruption in the distance
come into view. We’re still 25 km (15 miles) away but
the eruption is already visible through reflections of the
light in the clouds directly above the site, creating some
unusual patterns. after stopping at the cabin at Drekagil