Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.11.2007, Blaðsíða 22

Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.11.2007, Blaðsíða 22
Since opening its doors six weeks ago, Sushibarinn has fast become the talk of the town among Reykjavík sushi-lovers, and for good rea- son as their rolls are among the best in the city. The whole setting inside the small bar makes for a good fusion between oriental tradition and the somewhat more familiar settings of the West. All the staff wear traditional Japanese robes and the stylish and warm interior gives you a feeling of being somewhere else than in Reykjavik, Iceland. This feeling became even stronger when I was greeted by an English-speaking chef with a German ac- cent. While we waited for our food I enjoyed taking in the scenery, especially the view coming from a TV-monitor in one of the corners. It was showing what I’m sure must be the Japanese version of Power Rangers, only this one is much better. For starters we had miso soup and seaweed salad. I had never tried miso soup before and to be honest I didn’t like it. But my com- panion for the evening assured me that it was very good and since she has more experience than me in this field I’m going to take her word for it. The seaweed salad on the other hand was deliciously fresh and exotic. Our next course was the “best for one” dish which consisted of twelve different kinds of sushi. We got Nigiri rolls, small rolls, inside-out rolls, battleship sushi and so on. The mix changes from day to day depending on the availability of fresh ingredients. Next the waiter brought us six pieces of salmon uramaki (inside-out rolls). As expected they were delicious. Last but not least we were served minke whale tatake which came with ginger, mustard and dipping sauce which had a liquorice taste to it. It was so good that I’m sure that if we gave it to Paul Watson he would abandon his ridiculous crusade and become a whale hunter. It has always been a dream of mine to visit Japan, but until that happens I’m going to make the most of the little piece of Japan found at Laugavegur 2. I hope you will too. Address: Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel.: 552 4444 Reviewed by Sverrir Hjálmarsson Sushibarinn Vox restaurant is located on the first floor of the Hilton Reykjavík Nordica hotel on Suðurlandsbraut. It is actually a two-for-one kind of package, with a less formal bistro operation in the front of the large dining room, separated from the more elegant and official Vox Restaurant by a huge glass room that serves as a wine cellar. On this visit, we dined at the more casual bistro, which has its own separate menu. The menu is divided into light courses and main courses. The light courses range from around 1000 to 1600 ISK and include dishes such as Icelandic meat soup and Nordic tapas, with more traditional light dishes such as chicken and Caesar salad available as well. The main courses are in the 1600 to 3000 ISK price range, with beef ten- derloin topping the chart at 2990 ISK. Considering the attentive and professional service, the quality of the food, and the prestigious Hil- ton affiliation, the prices are surprisingly low. We started with dishes from the light course menu; chicken, served in tempura with basil and ruccola for my date, and classic Icelandic meat soup for yours truly. The chicken fell somewhere be- tween the unsurprising and the indifferent, but the meat soup was instantly placed in the category reserved for extremely tasty and memorable meat soups. Although sparse in ingredients, the clear meat soup was rich in flavour and free from the oily residue of lamb fat that sometimes ruins the pleasure of this popular Icelandic dish. For a main course, she ordered the beef tenderloin, while I se- lected another Icelandic traditional favourite: lamb chops. The beef tenderloin was an instant success. Served with fries and béarnaise sauce, it was both tender and tasty, and the portion surprisingly hefty. The lamb chops followed strict guidelines, perfected through the decades by Icelandic housewives, served with brown sauce and browned potatoes. It passed the test with flying colours. With little stomach room to spare, we decided to share a choc- olate cake for desert. That proved to be a mistake – it was far too good to share. Vox Bistro / Restaurant Address: Suðurlandsbraut 2 108, Reykjavík Tel.: 444 5050 Reviewed by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by GASPhoto by GAS B10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Reviews

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