Reykjavík Grapevine - 06.05.2016, Page 18

Hekla
The Medieval Gate To Hell
Words ARI TRAUSTI GUÐMUNDSSON Photo by SKARI
Iceland’s best-known volcano
Hekla (1491 m) proudly stands as a dominant
backdrop of the vast Southern Lowlands. It
is a centre of a volcanic system, containing
a number of crater rows and tuff ridges to
the northeast and southwest of the moun-
tain. The famed and very productive vol-
cano looks like a high cone, seen from the
south or north, but resembles an upturned
boat viewed from the east or west. The crest,
highest in the middle, is about five kilome-
tres long, lined with craters. Snow and firn
crowns the mountain and a small glacier
nestles on the high northwestern flank.
Hekla is mostly made of lava and tephra, up
to about 8-9,000 years old, but within re-
corded history, the eruptions number over
20. The most recent eruptions occurred
in 1947, 1970, 1980-81, 1991 and 2000. Large
eruptions may last more than a year; the
most recent ones, however, lasted for up to a
few weeks. Many lava flows surround Hekla,
making an approach difficult as the lava is
both rough and dodgy. Most ascents start
on the tephra plains of Skjólkvíar somewhat
to the northwest of the mountain. In 2009 a
warning was issued to hikers. Hekla could
erupt in the coming years, with a very short
prelude (approximately one hour), according
to geophysical monitoring. The Hekla Centre
is at Leirubakki (road 26).
Route description
Drive past Leirubakki and Næfurholt farm
to the sign for Landmannaleið (F225, oppo-
site Mt. Búrfell). Continue along the track
until another sign for Skjólkvíar/Hekla.
Most cars are able to reach a flat part below a
big red crater (Rauðaskál), mid-slope on the
left-hand side. Only a sturdy jeep can make
the upper part of the northeastern ridge, via
a track that ends at the steep slopes of Hekla.
This shortens the hike considerably. In win-
ter and spring, crampons may be essential.
From the parking flat, start hiking steadily
uphill, at first on the tracks, then along a
marked trail. The markings disappear but
in the summer a distinct trail leads you
through an eerie, imposing, dark landscape,
across crumbly lava flows, over compact ash
and pumice and past craters to the two cra-
ter rim hills that form the highest part of
Hekla.
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Weird or noteworthy stuff you’ll
see whilst driving around Iceland
Mad Max
Death
Sculpture
For first-time visitors to Iceland, a wa-
terfall, glacier and black-beach nature is
kind of a must. As you make your way out
of town on Route 1 heading south, escap-
ing the Reykjavík city limits and speed-
ing on through the open plains of gnarled
black lava and creeping yellowish moss,
you’ll soon come across this somewhat
ghoulish sight. It looks like a grim piece
of modern art, or maybe a dystopian ‘Max
Max’ road gang territory marker, stating:
“YE WHO TRESPASS HERE RISK A NASTY
RAMMING AND CRASHING BY THE VI-
KING MOTORBIKE WARRIORS OF HVER-
AGERÐI!” And actually, that's not as far
from the truth as it might seem. This ma-
cabre pile-up is intended to warn drivers
to take it easy on the famously windy and
treacherous Hellisheiði mountain pass
that lies just ahead. The message? “Three
dead this year. Is your seatbelt fastened?”
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The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 5 — 2016
18
Elevation:
1491 m
Ascent time:
3.5-5.0 hrs
Length:
7-8 km
Map:
57
Elevation gain:
1040 m
Ari Trausti Guð-
mundsson has been
active as a lecturer
and non-fiction
writer in the fields of
geology, volcanol-
ogy, astronomy,
environmental sci-
ence and mountain-
eering, with over
40 published book
titles. Educated as
a geophysicist in
Norway and Iceland,
Ari Trausti works as a
freelance consul-
tant in the fields of
geoscience, tourism
and environmental
issues as well as
writing and hosting
numerous radio and
television programs
and documentaries.
Words JOHN ROGERS Photo: ART BICNICK
ON THE ROAD