Reykjavík Grapevine - 06.05.2016, Síða 53

opened up and handed out to the
throng, who slurp down the ten-
der, oily shellfish and salty roe
with a splash of soy sauce. The
amazement on people’s faces says
it all: it’s the freshest and most de-
licious seafood imaginable.
Volcanoes, glaciers
& other wonders
Stykkishólmur is also home to
a handful of museums and local
shops. In the Eldfell Volcano Mu-
seum, we’re shown a collection
of mineral samples, maps and
art that includes, to our surprise,
original volcano-related works
by Hokusai and Andy Warhol.
As well as the science of volca-
noes, the museum also examines
the changing human perception
of them across the centuries—
whether you’re a geologist or not,
it’s an interesting exhibit.
Overlooking the harbour is an-
other large installation, this time
relating to glaciers. Roni Horn’s
Vatnasafn, or Library of Water,
inhabits the town’s old library
building, and presents a series of
floor-to-ceiling glass tubes, each
containing a sample of meltwater
and silt from one of Iceland’s gla-
ciers. The subtext is clear—one
day, this may be all that’s left of
them. Of the many attempts made
by artists to express their awe and
love for Iceland, the Library of Wa-
ter is amongst the most impressive.
After dropping by a couple of
local craft galleries, we finish the
trip with a meal at Narfeyrarstofa,
a homely restaurant in a well-
kept mint green house in the har-
bour. The chef and owner, Sæþór,
bought the place in 2001, and has
since expanded it to two floors to
cope with increasing demand. We
soon learn why: after a starter of
creamy but light seafood soup,
some juicy pan-fried scallops and
some tender redfish, we’re served
a large, mouth-watering chunk of
locally fished cod. It’s cooked to
perfection with the huge, meaty
flakes sliding apart under the
fork—and when dealing with such
a fine ingredient, just a dash of
salt, garlic and chilli is more than
enough to bring out the flavour.
But such a world-class meal
shouldn’t be a surprise, by now.
Whether it’s fine art, local culture,
superior lodgings, bracing nature
or unforgettable food, Stykkishól-
mur is a little town that has a win-
ning knack for confounding ex-
pectations.
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Distance
from Rvk
165 km
How to get there:
Take Route 1 north, turning left onto Route 54 then right onto Route 56.
Hotel Egilsen: egilsen.is
Dinner: narfeyrarstofa.is
53The Reykjavík GrapevineIssue 5 — 2016 TRAVEL