Atlantica - 01.09.2000, Page 25

FIRST LANDFALL
Where sea and sky merge off the south coast of Iceland, the rocky outcrop of Ingólfshöfdi forms the
only solid landmark. Rising 10 km south of the Vatnajökull glacier, and separated from the shore by a
wide slick of wet sand, Ingólfshöfdi has more than one claim to be Iceland’s starting point. It was here
that original settler Ingólfur Arnarson made his first landfall and spent the winter, before chasing his
seat pillars to Reykjavík. Today, travellers from Scandinavia still set their course for Ingólfshöfdi when
flying to Iceland, guided by the air beacon which stands on the rock. But for the land-bound, reaching
the headland is a chancy affair. You either need four feet, like this Icelandic sheepdog, or a good four-
wheel drive to negotiate the quicksands and unexpected channels which lurk along the route. VC
•REYKJAVÍK•
ICELAND
Photo Páll Stefánsson
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