Atlantica - 01.09.2000, Side 66

64 A T L A N T I C A
i-site❍
From the outside, this small restaurant – tucked away a small distance from
Reykjavík’s main shopping street – looks dark and unprepossessing. Enter, and
an elegant, fragrant world of soft yellow walls, oriental music and wood-
carved deities awaits the senses. Distinctly Icelandic-looking waitresses clad in
pseudo-Thai garb hover attentively at the tables, and are eager to recommend
the less spicy dishes to sensitive Northern palates. Upstairs are several beau-
tifully decorated rooms for larger groups, with low tables and cushion-seating.
The Banthai has gained a reputation for not only being the best Thai restau-
rant in Reykjavík, but also the best in the whole of Northern Europe. Tómas
Boonchang and his wife have created a superb menu of South Thai cooking,
delicate in flavour and yet strong on chilli. Tómas advocates starting off with
milder dishes, and ending with the more fiery ones, although chilli levels can
be varied according to the customer’s taste.
A beautifully presented starter of larb, a minced beef or pork salad, has the
bold flavours of lime leaf, chillies and aromatics. Deep-fried king prawns are
served with a subtle honey sauce, and the ubiquitous Thai fish cakes are
plump and firm, perfumed with basil and lemon grass. A classic green curry
entices with its subtle bouquet of lemon grass and ginger, followed by a more
exotic pickled leaf curry. Satay chicken has a defined flavour from its delicious
honey marinade, and the fried chicken with cashew nuts is tender and mild.
Desserts include glorious deep-fried bananas, fragrantly sweet with coconut
and served with ice cream.
A note at the beginning of Banthai’s menu recommends the drinking of strong
alcohol with the meal. When questioned on this, Tómas explains that the
flavours of wine tend to get lost when mixed with Thai spice, and that natives
prefer whisky on the rocks with their meal. A gentler alternative is the heady
Singha beer, a perfect extinguisher for that one chilli too many.
Banthai, Laugavegur 130, just up the road from the Hlemmur bus station, open
weekdays 6–10 p.m., weekends 6–11.30 p.m., closed Mon., Takeaway service
available, tel. (+354) 552 2444.
AUSTUR INDÍA FJELAGID
With its deep red exterior, guarded by stone lions,
the city’s only Indian restaurant has a regal air.
Inside, the elegant décor reflects colonial India,
with muted ivory walls, dark wood furnishings, and
Indian carvings. The atmosphere is calm and
unhurried, candles glow in niches in the stone
walls and the faint scent of incense perfumes the
air. A well-dressed clientele murmur their enjoy-
ment all around, and little wonder.
Starters include bhel puri, a crunchy combination
of lentils, onions and fresh tomatoes, topped with a
yoghurt sauce, and shrimp chat masala, a suc-
cessful combination of shrimp, potatoes and onion
with a zesty sauce.
A house speciality is the chicken “65”, delicious
tender breast of chicken marinated in a delicate
blend of spices and a full-bodied coconut sauce.
Fiery dhaba gosht, lamb with chilli, ginger and gar-
lic, is juicy and cooked to perfection. A glorious
tandoori lobster is served sizzling from the oven on
a bed of onions, topped with garlic and lemon juice.
The wine list offers a good selection of red and
white wine, but these should be chosen with care
to go with the strong flavours of the cooking. For
thirst-quenching abilities, try the lassi (a yoghurt
drink) or the tangy Kingfisher beer.
Austur Indía Fjelagid, Hverfisgata 56,
open Sun.–Thurs. 6–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 6–11 p.m.,
Takeaway and catering service available,
tel.(+354) 552 1630.
MEKONG
The ultimate Thai greasy spoon, tucked away near
the city’s industrial area. A bizarre mixture of ‘60s
Thailand and a truckers’ café, Mekong features
pink walls, fans, plastic flowers and posters of the
Thai royal family. Owned and run by Oddur, a stur-
dy-looking Icelander, this is a family business, with
his Thai wife cooking and his father-in-law serving
the meals. A steady clientele of truckers and har-
bour workers silently appreciate their food – unre-
fined but tasty versions of Thai cooking.
Dishes of the day usually include the freshest, deep
fried cod with rice and a choice of curry or sweet
and sour sauce. The Pad Thai noodles make a
rather gunky, heavy meal, and are accompanied by
deep fried prawns. Massaman curry is a satisfying
option, a blend of beef or chicken and potatoes in a
mild, slightly sweet sauce. Kao Pad fried rice with
chicken and prawns is a meal in itself, given the
generous servings. A distinctly un-Thai-like fried
chicken and chips is up on the menu board due to
popular request, another cheap and cheerful addi-
tion to this alternative dining experience.
Mekong, Sóltún 3, 105 Reykjavík,
open daily 11 a.m.–2 p.m., 5–10 p.m.,
except Sun. open 5–10 p.m.,
Takeaway service available, tel. (+354) 562 9060.
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Restaurants reviewed by
Anna Margrét Björnsson
ON THE SPICE TRAIL
Take the taste buds on a journey at Banthai
ATL 5/00 57-67-I-SITE cmsx 17.8.2000 16:30 Page 64