Atlantica - 01.06.2002, Page 38

Daniel Hoff Rodriques and Nasse the dog
What’s your favourite part of Oslo?
“That would be the beaches of Bygdø.
You can swim in the sea and
it’s also an excellent location
for people-watching.”
36 A T L A N T I C A
On the way to Holmenkollen, we stop by one of Oslo’s best kept
secrets: the unique tomb and museum of Emanuel Vigeland
(1875-1948), who all his life lived in the shadow of his aforemen-
tioned big brother, Gustav. Emanuel was a painter and the tomb
he called Emmanuelle Tomb is just as impressive as his brother’s
sculpture garden. The red-brick house resembles a church from
the outside, apart from its distinctive lack of windows. To enter
the tomb, you have to hunch over and walk through a tight door-
way. On a shelf by the entrance is an urn containing the remains
of the artist (so every guest over 150 cm has to bow to the former
master of the house). Once inside the barrel-vaulted room, it
takes a few moments to get used to the darkness and the slight-
est sound sets off the most bellowing echoes. When my eyes
finally adapt to the scarce light, the frantic world of the 800 m2 big
fresco Vita appears. The fresco covers the entire vault and depicts
life from conception to death and all that comes in between. It
shows purgatory, Judgement Day, heaven and hell, devils, ghost-
ly fiends and naked bodies in a sexual frenzy. This work of art can
hardly be described in words; it has to be seen in person. And
enough time must be taken to fully appreciate it. After a full
hour inside this strange world, walking out of the tomb’s dark-
ness into the sunlight is something like being reborn.
I come refreshed to Holmenkollen, where one can hardly step
sideways for fear of treading on the feet of a smiling Japanese
tourist. As I stare down the jump tower, I realise that these ath-
letes must have more than a couple of screws loose to plunge
themselves down this great slope on a pair of skis.
I had read that the view over Oslo is magnificent from
Holmenkollen. However, I can not judge for myself as the city is
now covered with a haze of heat, and perhaps barbecue fumes.
But that’s okay. I know what lies underneath the misty blanket;
one of the most pleasantly surprising cities I have encountered
on all my travels.
Jón Kaldal is the editor of Atlantica.
LEFT: THE MAGNIFICENT VIGELAND PARKEN; AKERSHUS SLOTT & FESTNING, AS SEEN FROM PIER RÅDHUSBRYGGE.
028-036 ATL402 Oslo 24.6.2002 15:46 Page 36