Atlantica - 01.06.2002, Side 42

Atlantica - 01.06.2002, Side 42
40 A T L A N T I C A Sherpas. I would have preferred being there only with my small team, but this is how it is and you have to accept it. The worst things are the traffic jams that can occur and delay climbers. Things were going pretty smooth when I summitted, but still I had to wait a few times for other climbers to get out of the way. EW: When did you first realise that you had successfully accomplished your quest to climb the Seven Summits? HÓ: You know the Hillary Step? It’s very high, a steep rock face. It’s named after [Sir] Edmund Hillary. When I was climbing it, I got this smile on my face. I was like, “No turning back now.” EW: What problems did you encounter on Mt. Everest? HÓ: I was really healthy compared to a lot of people. My biggest worry was getting a lung infection, which is very common at high altitude. I didn’t get it, however, I was coughing all the time, for nearly two months. I coughed so much that I broke a rib, which still bothers me today. I was in pain going up to the summit. EW: How long did it take to climb Mt. Everest? HÓ: Two months. Well, I was two months away from Iceland so a little bit less. Altogether, in base camp and above, I was on the mountain for more than one and a half months. EW: When you arrived at Mt. Everest, you had already climbed six of the seven highest summits on each continent. What was it like to have Mt. Everest standing in the way of your quest? HÓ: I knew Everest was much more diffi- cult than the other mountains. Only 30 percent of the climbers make it to the summit, so there was a 70 percent chance that I would not. I was very humbled by the mountain. I said to my climbing part- ner, “Somebody is going to die on this mountain in the next two months. Let’s not make it either one of us.” That’s the attitude I wanted. I constantly reminded myself, “This is dangerous. Do it right. Don’t take chances.” My number one goal was getting down safely. Number two was getting to the summit. EW: What pushes you to climb Mt. Everest when you know that death is a distinct possibility? HÓ: I like challenges. That’s my motiva- tion. I love being on the mountain – strug- gling with nature. I feel comfortable in nature. I like the challenges nature pre- sents. And it doesn’t have to be such a big challenge. I do a lot of smaller things in Iceland that nobody knows about. I’m always out climbing in Iceland. When I take something on, I want to be success- ful. I take on challenges I think I can fin- ish. But in the end, you can probably do anything. You just have to plan it right, be motivated, really want it and know what you’re doing is possible. EW: I think “Why?” is the million dollar question. Why did you trek to both poles and climb the Seven Summits? HÓ: It’s like everything else in life. Why do you write for a magazine? Things happen. It’s not like I’ve planned this since I was six. It happens, and you don’t exactly know why. I mean I could be doing some- thing different. But then again maybe not. It depends what you believe in. I do think that climbing is the right thing for me to do because there’s something in climbing that fits my personality, fits my skills. And I found it. If I didn’t climb, what then? I’d be a lawyer working on cases, watching TV and meeting my friends for a beer. Climbing is much more fun. I know some people find it difficult to understand why people trek to poles or climb mountains. I don’t think people ask the same questions to football players or marathon runners or swimmers. Those sports are accepted as a regular thing while climbing is unusual. For me, climb- ing or polar adventures are normal. I don’t have to ask myself why I do it because it’s something I love to do. EW: How does a polar trip or a quest to climb the Seven Summits evolve? HÓ: I get this dream – a little idea in my mind. Why do I get this dream? It’s hard to say. You read about polar trips and say, “Why not? I can do it, too.” But then it’s just a dream. Lots of dreams become nothing. Sometimes, though, they some- how take shape. Then you read more and begin to plan. Then one day you find yourself taking the first step. EW: What will you remember most about the Seven Summits? HÓ: All the trips were good. I had a great time on Kilimanjaro. It’s an easy moun- tain, but beautiful. The greatest challenge and the biggest emotions I felt were on Everest. Also, Antarctica is a very special place for me – Mt. Vinson is wild. It’s like a different planet. EW: With all the obstacles you faced – raising money, frigid weather, Maoist rebels – what makes these types of quests worth while? HÓ: It’s like an investment for me. It’s like a little piece of property. It doesn’t matter to me what other people say or think about my adventures. I know what I  CAMP 2 (6,400 M), WESTERN CWM (ADVANCE BASE CAMP), WHERE CLIMBERS SPEND DAYS ACCLIMATISING.  BASE CAMP (5,300 M): SHERPAS PERFORMING ‘PUJA’, A RITUAL CEREMONY AND CELEBRATION PERFORMED BEFORE ANY EXPEDITION TO THE SUMMIT BEGINS. 038-042 ATL402 Har.Örn 21.6.2002 18:22 Page 40
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