Atlantica - 01.09.2002, Page 24

22 A T L A N T I C A
Information about these places and, in fact, all the restaurants in
Amsterdam, from Burger King and McDonalds to the finest
Michelin-star restaurants, can be found in the essential IENS
Independent Index – Amsterdam Restaurants (2002 English
Edition), which is compiled by locals. This is simply the best
restaurant guide I have come across and there’s no question about
it, if you want to eat well in Amsterdam (and I don’t necessarily
mean expensively), you should begin your trip by investing in the
IENS guide. The editors have a knack with words and also use
witty comments sent in by all kinds of restaurant diners. It may be
best to warn sensitive souls that in the IENS guide, political cor-
rectness doesn’t get in the way of people’s opinions. As an exam-
ple, take this comment about Supper Club (Jong Roelensteeg 21),
one of the city’s trendier restaurants:
Although the good quality food tastes fine, with plenty of variation
between courses, one problem remains: too little food for too
much money!“ “The staff are far too arrogant and far too busy
being beautiful and cool to pay much attention” to the guests,
who lie down to eat. These are mainly “tourists, fashionable
homos from all over Europe and a good number of wannabes”.
AFTER ENJOYING A RELAXED MOMENT in the comfort of Jordaan, it’s
a good idea to take a trip to the Pijp neighbourhood in the south-
east part of the city, to experience the huge, bustling outdoor mar-
ket, Albert Cuypmarkt, where a swarm of Amsterdammers do
their daily shopping. Whether you are interested in sampling the
newest agricultural produce on the market, finding a used leather
jacket, or buying something totally different, then you’re in a good
place to start. As in Jordaan, there are no particular tourist spots
in Pijp – it’s the atmosphere that makes it interesting. The neigh-
bourhood has long been a melting pot of artists and immigrants,
which means that there’s an outstanding supply of inexpensive
and very good ethnic restaurants in the area.
If we keep to the busy but more traditional tourist spots, our
route takes us to the Leidseplein square, also in the southwest of
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE LIVELY ALBERT CYUPMARKT; SEA OF BICYCLES OUTSIDE CENTRAAL STATION; FILMING THE LIFE OF PAINTER
JOHANNES VERMEER (1632–1675) – THE CITY STILL LOOKS THE SAME.
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