Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.07.2008, Blaðsíða 30

30 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 09—2008
DESTINATION By Zoë roBert — pHoto By Zoë roBertNEWS By Ben H. Murray
With petrol prices at an all time high and
a car suited to city streets, it didn't exactly
seem like the ideal time to go on a road
trip to the most remote region of a country
already known for its exorbitant prices
and hazardous driving conditions. We set
off and arrive late in the evening at the
sleepy fishing village of Hólmavík, in the
eastern West Fjords in the far northwest
of the country, for a five day tour of the
region starting with the eastern section
of the fjords and then travelling west and
then south.
Hólmavík, the largest settlement in the area, is character-
ised by its traditional colourful corrugated iron houses and
its picturesque harbour overlooking Steinsgrímsfjörður. Al-
though just a 270 km drive north of Reykjavík, the days here
are noticeably longer. We watch the sunset fade into a pink-
ish haze on the horizon well after midnight.
Strandir Coast
The next day we head off along the Strandir coast toward
Norðurfjörður, which is as far as the dirt, all-too-often-bumpy,
road will take us. The friendly owners of the guesthouse in
Hólmavík hadn’t visited the remote area in a few years but
estimated that the drive would take around two hours. The
unsealed, narrow road winds endlessly between the moun-
tains on the one side, and the rocky, black sand coastline
on the other. Save the couple of cars that pass us, we are
alone on the road. The weather gods provide us with rare
(at least for the capital) warm, sunny and still conditions. It's
around 15°C but, as is often the case in Iceland, it feels warm-
er – more like 20 plus °C. We take a stroll up the side of the
mountain at Kaldbaksvík where a couple are fishing in the
crystal clear waters of the lake. The rusty coloured mountain
vegetation, deep blue waters of the fjord and its lush green
surroundings offset the pastel blue skies.
Eventually we come to the largely abandoned village of
Djúpavík, where the old herring processing plant, now hous-
ing an exhibition on the industry, stands as a reminder of this
sleepy town’s more prosperous times. The Strandir coastline
is lined with beaches littered with driftwood and flotsam –
rope, nets, buoys, random plastic objects – and the odd seal
sunbathing on the rocks. It’s so sparsely populated around
these parts, with only the occasional farm dotting the coun-
tryside, that we share the road only with the sheep and birds
that inhabit these shores during the summer. Combined with
the rough roads, the animal and birdlife prove to be a hazard,
forcing us to reduce speed to 30 to 40 kms an hour for much
of the way. Kría, or arctic terns, are notoriously aggressive at
this time of year, repeatedly attempting to swoop our car and
diving directly in front of the moving vehicle. On more than
one occasion the mating birds lay smack bam in the middle
of the road, bringing our car to a halt.
Manchester City, the new Chelsea of English Premiership football (slightly dodgy
overseas owner – check. Money wasted on dodgy players with names that sound
like a pasta sauce – check. Blue kit – check) will, this summer, be getting on a
plane to somewhere a majority of their players will never have heard of – the Faroe
Islands – to contest a UEFA Cup spot with the mighty EB/Streymur.
So, just how much of a monumental mismatch is this two-legged tie between
a team that won the whole competition in 1970 and one that has never even fin-
ished top of its own domestic league competition? The Grapevine investigated
and came up with some interesting comparisons.
- Although the match will probably be held at one of the bigger grounds in the
Faroese capital of Torshavn (EB's home ground just about caters for 1000 fans),
this will still be like the average Premiership player's back garden in comparison
to the City of Manchester Stadium, capacity 47,700. The entire Faroese population
could fit in this grand arena.
- Manchester City have spent over 4.7 billion ISK on players since their takeover by
ex-Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, a man estimated to be worth 130 bil-
lion ISK. His total personal wealth is equal to about one third of the entire annual
Faroese GDP (Gross Domestic Product).
- The Faroese national football team is ranked 193rd in the world and most people
think their full name is Faroe Islands Nil, apart from when they play Scotland. In
contrast, England are somehow ranked in the top ten national teams in the world
of football despite their team being mostly populated by players who can't stay out
of the tabloid newspapers and assorted other philanders, womanisers and thugs.
See most of their defensive unit for examples of all three.
- Anyone who has ever been to the Faroe Islands will testify that it's one of the
most beautiful places on earth, in comparison to Manchester – a city that has the
nickname Gunchester due to its high crime rate and prevalence of housing estates
and districts where you really wouldn't go after dark without a bodyguard. No
wonder their players are some of the most aggressive in English football (several
current and ex team members have criminal records), whilst the Faroe Islands are
populated by some of the most peaceful, friendly and contented souls you're likely
to meet outside of a hippy commune.
Roland Hojsted, EB's Chair, when asked about the tie, simply said: "What can they
expect? They can expect to lose." We're not holding our breath, Roland, but if your
boys pull off one of the all-time great giant killings in the world of sport, then we'll
be the first to congratulate them.
Feed them some of that dried pilot whale, washed down with a few pots of
aquavit and a really old, chewy puffin steak for dinner the night before and your
chances will greatly increase. Good luck on July 17.
wHo would focus on fisH?
Exploring Fishing Villages
in the Far Northwest
England's Blues to Lose
in the Faroe Islands
This Summer? We Wish.