Reykjavík Grapevine - 12.08.2016, Page 27

John Rogers
“Holuhraun was, during and after the eruption,
off limits; the volcano spewed out toxic gases
that sat over the area. But when the eruption
was over, rangers were surprised to find that
a river thought to have been swallowed by the
eruption had re-appeared. Somewhat incredibly—
‘like a gift from the land,’ in our guide’s
words—the water was heated during its journey
through the lava to Holuhraun’s eastern edge,
emerging at around 38-42 degrees, which also
happens to be the bathing temperature of Ice-
land’s geothermal hot pots. A pathway was duly
marked across the brittle lava, avoiding any
air bubbles and unstable areas. We follow the
trail gingerly, the featherweight pebbles mak-
ing a sound like broken crockery as they clat-
ter over the sharp, twisted rocks.
“The river is shallow, with a steady cur-
rent and a pleasant temperature that fluctu-
ates according to the flow of various hot and
cold tributaries. Behind, the broken lava juts
up dramatically against the sky; ahead, the
water flows away across plains of steaming
black sand. As I take my hands and feet off the
ground, I’m swept gently downstream. It’s an
experience that feels at once like temporarily
sliding out of day-to-day reality, and being
embraced by the earth’s natural warmth.”
Steinar Kaldal, Hálendið
“Iceland’s Highlands are considered one of
the greatest wilderness areas still remain-
ing in Europe. The aesthetic natural variety
that unfolds in a few days’ trip in the central
highland is unique: glaciers, glacial rivers,
glacially sculpted landscapes, barren pla-
teaus with wide horizon and an endless view,
colourful geothermal areas, natural freshwa-
ter springs, lava fields, steep and odd shaped
mountains and mountain ridges including unique
tuff ridges, permafrost areas, and beautifully
coloured tundra vegetation. Conservation of the
Icelandic Central Highland is of great impor-
tance.”
Photo ART BICNICK
Photo ART BICNICK