Reykjavík Grapevine - 12.08.2016, Qupperneq 66

A tuya or stapi mountain is a sub-
glacial volcanic structure on top of
a short volcanic fissure. If a longer,
subglacial volcanic fissure opens
up beneath thick ice, the landscape
forms differently from a stapi.
The basalt rocks, however, are still
pillow lava, tuff (móberg in Icelan-
dic) and sometimes even summit
lava. The volcanic structure ap-
pears as a long ridge, with indi-
vidual summits where the most
active volcanic vents were located.
Such tuff ridges are very common
within or close to the active volca-
nic zone in Iceland. Kálfstindar,
not far from Lake Þingvallavatn,
is a solid example. The peaks on
the ridge number seven in all, and
from the peak picked as our des-
tination here, you will notice an
array of similar ridges and peaks
to the north and east, as well as
stapis like Hlöðufell, Skriðan and
Hrafnabjörg, and lava shields like
Skjaldbreiður. The mountains
bear witness to the lively volca-
nic activity beneath the Ice Age
glacier cover. Recent lava flows
and craters nearby show that the
earthly fires still are at large.
Kálfstindar: Kálfur (calf or a man’s
name), tindar (plural for peaks).

Route character
A good outing in pristine land-
scape with a long scree slog but a
good finish.
Route description
The recently abandoned gravel
road between Þingvellir National
Park and Laugarvatn (365, Gjábak-
kaleið) is really the best way to get
to the caves at Laugavatnsvellir.
The new paved road lies farther
east. From the parking lot at the
caves (once used for night accom-
modation and even permanent
habitation, from 1910-1921), walk
the gravel flats towards Mt. Þverfell.
At the foot of an imposing name-
less Kálfatindar peak west of
Þverfell, start to climb the steep,
coarse scree slopes into the pass
between this nameless giant and
the 824-metre pyramid (next in
line to the northeast). Beware of
rockfall from other hikers if you
climb in a group. Climb the pyra-
mid from the pass in a northeast-
erly direction, across scree, slant-
ing tuff cliffs, between boulders
and past a small rock tower. This
summit is the highest in on the
ridge (the name Flosatindur has
been suggested).
Difficulty rating: 5
Overall rating: 6
SHARE: gpv.is/hi12
HIKING
Kálfstindar
Take Your Pick
Words ARI TRAUSTI GUÐMUNDSSON
Photo ART BICNICK
Elevation:
824 m
Ascent time:
2.5-3.5 hrs
Length:
4 km
Map no.:
37
Elevation diff-
erence: 600 m
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 12 — 2016
64
ON THE ROAD
Sandfell Öræfi
Words & Photo JOHN ROGERS
Of all the things Iceland is famous
for, trees are not among them.
Most Icelandic trees are shivering,
skinny things, with branches close
to the trunk, as if trying to cling to
the ground through the gale-force
winds of winter. But the Icelandic
Gardeners Association keeps an
eye out year-round for particularly
unusual or impressive specimens.
In 2015, an unusual 11.98m rowan
tree that grows at the historic site
of Sandfell Oræfi, on the edge of
the Vatnajökull glacier, was ac-
knowledged as Iceland’s best tree.
Sandfell was first settled by
Þórgerður, a widow who claimed
the land and built a farm for her-
self and her son. Later, it became
the site of a church. But living on
the edge of a glacier carries some
risks. The settlements at Sandfell
were twice devastated by erup-
tions, and the ensuing glacial
floods. Still, people continued to
rebuild dwellings and inhabit the
area right up until 1947. The tum-
bledown buildings of the last farm
on the site were torn down in 1973.
Planted in 1923, the Sandfell
rowan tree stands near the ruins,
visible from the southern ring
road, forming a sort of natural
memorial. It’s an unusual sight—
Iceland has few prominent broad-
branched deciduous trees of this
type and height—and it’s espe-
cially curious because it stands
near one of the most famously
storm-battered parts of Iceland’s
coastline. It looks oddly alien in
the generally treeless and mossy
landscape. Its branches are wide-
spread and silver, looking at first
like a low, blurry cloud against the
mountainside.
All that remains of the church
is an engraved foundation stone,
but the tree still flourishes,
against the elements and against
the odds.
HIKING
Kálfstindar
Take Your Pick
North Worn
available in all main
tourist shops