Reykjavík Grapevine - 12.04.2019, Page 52

ROAD TRIP
Snæfellsnes
Words: John Rogers Photos: John Rogers & Art Bicnick
Just a couple of hours from Reykja-
vík lies Snæfellsnes—a long volca-
nic peninsula containing a wide ar-
ray of wonders, from black beaches
to towering waterfalls, lava fields,
and the mystical Snæfellsjökull
glacier. You can make it there and
back in a long day trip, but we’d
recommend spending two or three
nights in the area to take it all in.
Visit:
Ölkelduvatn Mineral
Spring & Ytri-Tunga
These two different but equally in-
teresting spots are on the penin-
sula’s south coast. At Ytri-Tunga,
you can park and walk down to the
beach to see—if you’re lucky—a
seal colony. A few kilometres away
is the Ölkelduvatn spring. A humble
tap in a patch of farmland, the me-
tallic, slightly sparkling drinking
water is said to have health bene-
fits.
Drive:
Rauðgeldsgjá
This narrow, serpentine canyon can
be difficult to reach during win-
ter—you’ll see footprints leading
over a steep snow bank to get there.
But once inside, it quickly becomes
apparent why people made the ef-
fort. Birds wheel high above, nest-
ing in the bulging rock walls of the
crevice, which has a stream bur-
bling down its centre. Just be care-
ful, it’s slippery.
Stay:
Hótel Búðir / Freezer
Hostel
For those seeking some luxury, Ho-
tel Búðir is a hotel in a nature re-
serve on the southern coast of the
peninsula. Those on a budget can
stay on the northern side at the
Freezer Hostel in Rif, which also
has a theatre and a cosy bar. Freez-
er also operates apartments in
Hellissandur via AirBnB—their
popular studio apartments are par-
ticularly nice, with big windows
looking out over the ocean.
Visit:
Hellnar
There are a few villages dotted
around the edge of the peninsula,
but Hellnar is possibly the pretti-
est. Down a dirt track and a steep
bank, the rocky, boulder-strewn
beach has a huge tidal cavern,
where the frothing ocean crashes
in, surrounded by stunning rock
formations. In summer, there’s a
picturesque hike along the coast
line to nearby Arnarstapi. Not far
away, other notable stops are the
Londrangar sea stacks and the
eerie, w reckage-strew n Djú-
palónssandur.
Eat:
Bjargsteinn
On Grundarfjörður harbour you’ll
find this wonderful tucked-away
eatery. Don’t let the humble ex-
terior fool you: inside lies a time
capsule of Icelandic history with a
view out to Kirkjufell. The restau-
rant serves ambitious renditions
of traditional Icelandic fare—try
the seafood soup, served in a mini
crockpot, which comes teeming
with fresh scallops. The veggie
options are good, too.
Tours:
Vatnshellir &
Viking Sushi
LanThere are a few adventurous
excursions on offer in the area. On
the southern edge of Snæfellsnes
like the 8,000 year old Vatnshellir
lava tube, complete with rock for-
mations, colourful seams, stalag-
mites and more. Up north in Styk-
kishólmur, you can embark on a
tasty journey with the Viking Sushi
boat tour, where fresh scallops and
urchins are dredged up and served
fresh, right before your eyes.
Swim:
Stykkishólmur Pool
There are a few pools in small
towns around Snæfellsnes, but
Stykkishólmur pool jumps out
from the pack. With the properties
of the mineral-rich water displayed
proudly on an information board
by the hot pots, you can luxuriate
knowing the water is doing you
good. And who knows, maybe the
slide will be open. The nearby Vol-
cano Museum is an unlikely loca-
tion to see works by Hokusai and
Andy Warhol.
Travel
Distance from Reykjavík: 238 km
How to get there: Route One North,
then Route 54 from Borgarnes
Car provided by: gocarrental.is
Accommodation provided by: hotelbudir.is
Under the glacier
The best of Icelandic produce
with a nod to Japan and South
America. Modern Icelandic
flavours, share plates and award
winning cocktails.
Sushi Social
Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
Our kitchen is open
17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.
17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.
SOCIALIZE
WITH THE
LOCALS
ICELANDIC
SEAFOOD
makes world’s best sushi