Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.07.2008, Qupperneq 31

“They put on such a
beautiful meal for us.
We had the most
amazing freshest fish I've
ever had in my life.
It was all so perfectly
cooked too...Beautiful!”
Jamie Oliver’s Diary
Every Thursday in July and August at
5pm. Starts at Reykjavik City Library in
Tryggvagata 15. The walk, which lasts for
about 90 min, is at an easy pace and suits
everyone.
Free of charge.www.borgarbokasafn.isTel: 563-1717
Reykjavík in Literature
A Guided Walking Tour
www.mountainguides.is
Phone: +354 587 9999
DAY tours
Spectacular
Breathtaking
Unforgettable
Glacier & Hot
spring walks
DESTINATION
A Pool in the Middle of Nowhere
More than four hours after leaving Hólmavík and a scenic,
but slow, drive through nothingness, we arrive at our destina-
tion of Norðurfjörður – more specifically, the open-air geo-
thermal swimming pool at Krossness. An eight hour return
drive to get to a swimming pool may sound a bit extreme,
but the simple, unattended pool we’re talking about, with its
single hot tub, lies on a quaint pebbled beach with unob-
structed views of the sea. The weather wasn't feeling so sum-
mery by this time, but we were only too eager to test the new
waters – soon agreeing that the drive was worth it.
In true Icelandic fashion, the locals strike up a conver-
sation in the hot tubs. They talk to us about the hardships
of the life in the tiny village, the woes of the fishing indus-
try, and the all too familiar trend of migration to the bigger
centres of Akureyri and Reykjavík, referred to as “the City”
around here. Times might be tough in the country, but these
people have unrivalled peacefulness and surely one of the
best pools around.
The sparsely populated and isolated Norðurfjörður is
the last stop before the Hornstrandir peninsula, abandoned
from settlement in the 1950s. The peninsula, comprising of
Drangajökull glacier and an expanse of wild grassland and
tundra, is a popular summer hiking destination. But hiking
isn’t on our agenda, and with the prospect of the weather
closing in the following day, we decide to head back down
the coast for the long drive to Hólmavík.
ísafjörður
The following day we continue on to the regional hub of
Ísafjörður, population 3000. The drive soon turns tedious
after the marvels and more desirable weather of the previ-
ous day. Fjord, after fjord, after fjord... endless fjords, it seems
as we drive the length of each. Finally Ísafjörður appears,
strung out on a protruding spit into the fjord with the steep,
snow tipped mountains providing a dramatic backdrop.
People around these parts, like in much of the West
Fjords, survive off fishing, sheep farming out of town, and
increasingly, tourism. The owner of our guesthouse, who
just so happens to be one of the most talkative and friendly
people I’ve encountered in Iceland, insists that we have din-
ner down at the harbour at the fish restaurant housed in one
of Iceland’s oldest buildings. The fish is reportedly right off
the boat – and according to all accounts, is phenomenally
good.
The owner of the guesthouse tells us that she is trying
to help to establish the West Fjords as a tourist destination.
And she’s not the only one. The region’s slogan is “A differ-
ent Iceland”, and there have been concerted efforts to attract
tourism to the area and even talk of trying to get direct flights
from abroad. Eager to promote what the area has to offer, she
enthusiastically proclaims that the West Fjords offer many of
what the whole of Iceland has to offer in a concentrated area.
And, she could be right.
An icy wind blows from the mountains still striped with
snow that refuses to budge despite the arrival of summer.
The following afternoon we make a trip to the nearby towns
of Hnífsdalur and Bolungarvík, where fish drying racks line
the coast.
Iceland’s National Day
On our final day we drive back along the western fjords
through the 5 km tunnel, detouring to Suðureyri, yet another
fishing village set in a stunning fjord, where we visit the local
wool craft store. Being Iceland’s National Day, we take the
opportunity to also stop at Hrafnseyri, the birthplace of Jón
Sigurðsson, leader of Icelandic independence, where the car
park is quickly filling for a special ceremony. Sigurðsson’s
former home is now a museum dedicated to his legacy and
life in the 1800s. Inside the adjacent wooden church, built in
1886, Iceland’s bishop is preparing for a special mass.
Later, we spend the afternoon driving through the fjords
and over the highlands towards Reykjavík. While many of
the towns in the West Fjords are not worth all the driving in
themselves, it’s the dramatic views that impress. The friendli-
ness of the inhabitants, along with the rugged beauty of the re-
gion, has left me with a new appreciation for this country.
PLACES VISITED
Hólmavík
www.holmavik.is
Suðureyri
www.sudureyri.is
Hrafnseyri
www.hrafnseyri.is
Hnífsdalur
Bolungarvík
www.bolungarvik.is
Ísafjörður
www.isafjordur.is
fLY
www.airiceland.is
Round trip: est:16.250ISK from
Reykjavik Airport check online for details.
DRIVE
www.hertz.is
www.sixt.is
And more info on the area:
www.westfjords.is
it’S So SparSely populated around
tHeSe partS, WitH only tHe occaSional
FarM dotting tHe countrySide, tHat We
SHare tHe road only WitH tHe SHeep and
BirdS tHat inHaBit tHeSe SHoreS during
tHe SuMMer.