Reykjavík Grapevine - 23.09.2016, Page 58

“I understand and acknowledge
the risks I’m undertaking by
choosing to participate in activi-
ties and assume all responsibility
for exposing myself to these risks/
dangers,” states the last sentence
of the contract. I consider these
words before signing. It’s a nec-
essary step before an all-action
whale watching safari that prom-
ises to include scooting over the
waves a aboard a 700-horsepower
inflatable speedboat.
Having experienced extreme
cold while taking boat trips in
Iceland, I’ve packed my winter
jacket, hat, scarf and gloves for
this one. I only need the hat,
though, as Whale Safari supply
everybody with warm overalls,
gloves, goggles and all necessary
safety equipment. As I dress, I
feel a bit anxious—I can’t help
but think about Moby Dick ris-
ing up out of the water to destroy
Ahab’s ship. But the guy who helps
me and about dozen other thrill-
seekers into our lifejackets is so
chill that I quickly forget such
scary thoughts.
I chat with an Irishman who
just got off the last tour. “It took
us for a while to see any whales,
but it was worth it,” he says, hap-
pily. “Actually, it would’ve been
great even if we didn’t see whales.
The boat ride was an adventure in
itself.”
Whales
aren’t summoned

We board the boat and speed out
of the harbour, bouncing along the
waves. I enjoy the feeling of cold
ocean water splashing my face. It’s
a bumpy ride, so I also enjoy the fact
that I didn’t have any lunch before-
hand. I eye the huge mountains,
the powerful sea and the endless
horizon, and the feeling of freedom
is priceless.
In 92% of these tours, whales or
dolphins are seen. After scanning
the ocean for about an hour and a
half, we learn with regret that we’ve
won the jackpot: we’re among the
eight percent that don’t. But the
Irishman’s words from earlier ring
true: the ride was an adventure in
itself.
I’m happy to find out that the
tour company gives everyone on
an unlucky boat a complimentary
second trip. When I return a few
days later, the sea is mirror-still—
perfect conditions for the gentle
giants to reveal themselves to us.
Fifteen minutes in, I begin to see
the first whales scything effort-
lessly through the water, and pretty
soon a big minke whale shows up.
“We call it ‘minke-stinky’ because
you can smell rotten fish before see-
ing a minke itself,” says our guide.
She’s right. “Minke-stinky” may be
the second-smallest of the baleen
family of whales, but it looks like
a giant with its dorsal fin sticking
up above water. This time, we’re
lucky enough to see at least ten of
these beautiful creatures during
the trip. After an unforgettable hour
amongst these seabound giants,
I return to the harbour thinking:
“I love the sea, and everything in it.”

Trip provided by whalesafari.is
SHARE & MORE PICTURES:
gpv.is/whale
Njörðr, Please
Summon The Whales
A high-speed whale chase
Words GEIDI RAUD Photos ART BICNICK
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 15 — 2016
58
Several accounts of tale
stones exist. Ólafur of
Purkey says that it can be
found in the nest of the
wagtail in May. It is to be
kept in a bloody neck scarf
and put in your right ear
when you wish to learn
something from it. It will
then tell you everything
that you might want to
know.
Others describe the
stone thus: When the first
day of summer arrives
during Holy Week, the ra-
ven will lay on the eggs on
Good Friday. One should approach
the nest while mass is being said.
When the Passion is recited, the
raven will lie on the eggs as if dead,
and a stone will fall from its head
and into the nest from where it
can be retrieved. One should then
harden it and carry it on one’s per-
son in a bag. When placed at the
root of the tongue, one will be able
to understand raven language.
A man who wants to acquire
some knowledge is to tie
the stone under his right
armpit when he goes to
bed and wrap his clothes
tightly around his body.
“Set your mind on that
which you want to know
before you fall asleep, and
remember what you have
learned when you awake.”
One stone, grey in co-
lour, can be found in sea
foam. When placed in a
lake, sediment appears,
in which one can see
one’s face. “Then ask that
which you want answered
and be steadfast.”
Source: Jón Árnason, Íslenz-
kar þjóðsögur og ævintýri I,
p. 649-650.
"Monster of the Month" is a spin off of 'The Mu-
seum of Hidden Beings', by artist Arngrímur Sigurðsson. He delved
into Iceland ś mythological history, taking creature encounters from
across the centuries and bringing them to life through painting in an
act of creative cryptozoology. Find the book at bookstores, or order
it online at arngrimur.com.
ADVENTURE
Offering fresh Icelandic cuisine in a
stylish and casual atmosphere in the heart
of down town Reykjavík.
isafold re s t aurant . is
Þingholtsstræti 5 - tel: 595 8535
RESTAURANT
ÍSAFOLD
Fresh local food and cozy ambiance in the city center
Kitchen open from 11:30 - 22:00

Þingholtsstræti 5 - Tel: 595 8535 - www.isafoldrestaurant.is
MONSTER OF THE MONTH
Sögu-
steinn
Tale Stone