Reykjavík Grapevine - 09.11.2018, Page 50

TOWN GUIDE
Djúpivogur
Words & Photos : Eli Petzold
Just off Route 1 in the East Fjords,
the buildings of Djúpivogur fill the
interstices between a network of
crumbling cliff walls. With about
500 residents and its own liquor
store, Djúpivogur is a relative
metropolis in the remote east. A
member of the international Cit-
taslow movement, the municipal-
ity has committed itself to main-
taining a slow pace of everyday life
here. If you move slowly enough,
you just might be able to fill out a
whole day in Djúpivogur.
Stay:
Hótel Framtíð
Situated in Djúpivogur’s har-
bour, Hótel Framtíð offers a
variety of accommodation op-
tions right in the heart of town.
Wood-panelled single and double
rooms in the hotel’s main build-
ing, cottages and the adjacent
apartments make for a cosily
rustic experience. Built around
1905, the hotel’s main building
underwent a series of reincarna-
tions as it passed from owner to
owner. Despite its claim to longev-
ity and its variegated past, it still
bears its early twentieth century
name “Framtíð,” which (perhaps
ironically) means ‘The Future.’
Stroll: Innri-Gleðivík
Neighbouring Djúpivogur’s com-
mercial harbor, this smaller
harbour hosts a handful of un-
expected oddities. Twin whale
skeletons along Víkurland road
mark the entrance to Freevilli
Gallerí, an eclectic mix of rocks,
bones and folk art collected by
an eccentric local. It ’s unclear
what’s for display and what’s for
sale, but perhaps that’s precisely
the point. Just down the road, 34
ovoid sculptures hug the outer
coast of the bay. Each smaller
than the next, the sculptures rep-
resent the eggs of 34 bird species
that call Djúpivogur home.
Eat: Havarí
Although about 40 minutes’ drive
from Djúpivogur, it’s well worth
the trek across Berufjörður to
munch on the hearty vegetarian
fare dished up at Havarí’s café. A
stark departure from the often
unremarkable, repetitious dishes
that line the rural roads of Iceland,
Havarí’s café serves meals with a
heavy helping of love, care, and at-
tention to flavour. Try the grilled
cheese stuffed with vegetarian
sausage and be sure to dip it in the
curry ketchup.
Swim:
Sundlaug Djúpavogs
Housed indoors, Djúpivogur’s
municipal swimming facility of-
fers a balmy respite from the ele-
ments during generous opening
hours all year round. A massive
swimming pool, two hot tubs and
a kiddie pool provide plenty of
room to relax, exercise, or play.
With the thermostat set at near-
tropical temperatures, you’d be
forgiven for wanting to just sit
in a deck chair, defrost and revive
on a particularly miserable day.
Explore: Fossárdalur
Near the mouth of Berufjörður,
about 20 minutes west of Djúpiv-
ogur, a series of falls plummets
step-by-step through Fossárdalur
(Waterfall-river-valley) to the sea.
Vague trails wind through a sap-
ling grove, allowing for a serene,
sylvan jaunt alongside the falls. Be
sure to catch Nykurhylsfoss—the
most stunning of these falls—
which gushes through a gate-like
aperture in the cliff-wall before
pouring, ultimately, into the fjord.
Travel
Distance from Reykjavík: 613 km
How to get there: Route One south, continuing
beyond the turnoff for the Öxi mountain pass
Car provided by: gocarrental.is
Accommodation provided by: havari.is
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