Reykjavík Grapevine - 13.09.2019, Qupperneq 44

Beyond Momos
Himalayan Spice is a whirlwind of
delicate Nepali flavours
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Art Bicnick
Himalayan Spice
Visit the restaurant at Himalayan
Spice at Laugavegur 60A and online
at himalayanspiceiceland.com
The words ‘tourist trap’ are all
I think lately as I walk down
Laugavegur. A Nepali restaurant
on the main street had, therefore,
firmly remained on my avoid list
and the menu advertised outside
wasn’t enticing either. Tourist trap,
I was smugly convinced.
But in the past year, there has
been a change in name, ownership,
as well as in the kitchen. At Himala-
yan Spice, under owner Ash Kumar
Gurung, chefs Pradip Gurung, Du-
raj Gurung and Shyam Thapa have
crafted a fastidious menu, designed
to showcase the mountainous cui-
sine of Nepal.
Nepali Cuisine
Nepali fare is distinctive, even as it
shares similarities with the cuisines
of India, Tibet and China. Thanks
to the altitude and shorter grow-
ing periods, grains like buckwheat
and barley; hardy veggies like dai-
kon radish; lentils; leafy greens;
and cheese are integral parts of the
cuisine. Himalayan Spice does an
appreciative job of capturing this
spirit, even as the menu offers In-
dian restaurant classics like palak
paneer.
Beyond Momos
When an innocent-looking timbale
of puffed rice is set down, I’m men-
tally prepared for a bhel-puri like
dish. But Chatpate (1099 ISK), with
its tumble of crushed Wai Wai noo-
dles (a Nepali brand of noodles with
a near-cult following) and puffed
rice, enrobed in a sour, sweet, spicy
tamarind slicked sauce, steals my
heart. Chopped cucumber adds a
touch of freshness, and we wipe
our plates clean, in mild disbelief
that we just had chaat this good in
Reykjavík.
Momos are by now synonymous
with Nepali cuisine. Unlike Tibetan
momos, with their delicate filling of
meat, green onions and soy, Nepali
momos are a transitional version as
they jostle between Tibet and India.
Ergo, turmeric and other ground
spices find favour here.
The chicken momos (2499 ISK)
are at that exciting edge of famil-
iar newness, with juicy minced
chicken jolted with spikes of fresh
green chillies, the unexpected bite
urging you to eat another steamed
dumpling. Forego cutlery, however,
they’re best enjoyed by hand. The
skins could’ve been slinkier, but I’ll
still go back for my momo-tomato
chutney fix.
Dal-Bhat
The Himalayan thakali (3999 ISK)
is a sublime treat to all the senses.
Served like a thali, the gleaming
brass bowls with various vegetable
and meat dishes are an array of de-
licious planets orbiting the star—a
mound of perfectly steamed, fluffy
basmati rice.
I stir together generous spoon-
fuls of the dal—slow-cooked whole
moong dal, with nothing more than
what I suspect to be a simple ghee
tempering, with the rice. Bite down
on a bit of mustard forward moleko
achar (radish pickle) now and then.
Is that an onion-rich home-style
chicken curry there? Delicious. How
about the simply spiced cauliflower
and potato stir fry?
But the real star is the unassum-
ing spinach, quickly blanched and
stir-fried with nubs of golden-brown
fried garlic. Why sawdusty kale is
almost revered and velvety greens
cooked this way sidelined I’ll never
understand. Each dish underlines
the homeliness of this fare—height-
ened simplicity that belies their nu-
anced expression, something those
who grew up with similar food will
instantly recognise.
To palates and minds accus-
tomed to spice-forward desi dishes,
the subtlety of many of the dishes
might seem like an anti-climax. But
I urge you to go all-in with the entire
experience. It certainly put a spring
back in my step.
Like any city geared towards
tourists, Laugavegur is full of traps.
It is a relief then to find restaurants
that strive for their voice and ex-
press it with attractively priced,
wholesome fare. Gracious service
sweetens the affair that much more.
Himalayan Spice is far from being a
tourist trap, rather it’s a little Nep-
alese nook right in Reykjavík.
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From the roof of the world to your table
Food
FISH PANS
ICELANDIC "PLOKKFISKUR"
Onion, garlic, potatoes,
celery, lime, white wine,
cream and butter
, ISK

ARCTIC CHAR
Honey, almonds, cherry–
tomatoes, lemon and butter
, ISK
REDFISH
Chili, celery root, sour cream,
corn, lemon and cream
, ISK
PLAICE
Tomatoes, capers, parsley,
lemon and butter
, ISK
SALMON (LACTOSE–FREE)
Parsnip, broccoli, cashews,
coconut oil, chili and lemon
, ISK
OUR FISH PANS ARE ALWAYS SERVED
WITH BUTTER–FRIED ICELANDIC
POTATOES & FRESH SALAD
ANY PANS
FOR
LUNCH?
LÆKJARGATA B,  RVK ·   · MESSINN@MESSINN.COM
ban thai
w w w . b a n t h a i . i s
tel : 5522-444, 692-0564 banthai@banthai.is
B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 9
2018,
2017,
2016,
2015,
2014,
2013,
2012,
2011,
2010,
2009,
TOP TEN
Best restaurants in ICELAND
DV. 17.06.11
Laugavegur 130, Reykjavík
Ban Thai is not “fast food” restaurant
food made fresh from scratch, it‘s not pre-made,
every meal take some time to cook,
Always been the best from the reviews
in our local people and local newspaper.
There's a reason why we get an award every once a year
Best goddamn restaurant 2011
many famous people are regulars here
very reasonable prices