Atlantica - 01.06.2004, Síða 47

Atlantica - 01.06.2004, Síða 47
44 A T L A N T I C A RÚGBRAUD HÁKARL Every nation of the world has its own peculiar cuisine. From sushi in Tokyo to escargot in the brasseries of Paris, anyone who has travelled to foreign lands knows the singular pleasure of sampling an unknown delicacy. Sometimes pleasure isn’t exactly the right word. Here then is a brief overview of what Icelandic super- markets have to offer around this time of year. Keep in mind that preservation (not presentation) plays a large role in Icelandic cuisine. IAM i-site The Dummy’s Guide to Icelandic Food SVID FOOD HOTEL The grand old dame of Reykjavík hotels, the Radisson SAS Saga Hotel, has just undergone exten- sive renovations. This first-class establishment, located just a few minutes’ walk from the city centre, enjoys a cosmopolitan atmosphere and is the ideal venue for both business travellers and tourists. Over seventy percent of the rooms have gone through a makeover, in both light, modern Scandinavian style or warm, cosy Maritime style, with wireless Internet connections in each. Eight suites and one luxu- ry apartment suite have also received major facelifts with beau- tiful new furnishings. Watch out for a new bistro menu at the renowned Skrúdur restaurant, which offers a great variety of daily dishes as well as famous Saga staples such as their scrumptious gratin. Hotel visi- tors will also enjoy the nearby attractions, which include an open-air, geothermally heated swimming pool (with free access for hotel guests), the National Museum, National Library and the Nordic House. AMB Elegant Cool P H O TO Á S LA U G S N O R R A D Ó TT IR The Radisson SAS Saga Hotel PTARMIGAN SVID – After it’s been singed and boiled, a disembodied sheep’s head looks more like the mummified remains of food than food itself. It is eaten most frequently around the time of Thorrablót when the light is still dim enough for you not to be able to see what you’re eating. Apparently the eyeball is the best part – a distinction not dished out indiscriminately. HARDFISKUR – This wind-dried haddock, cod, and catfish is often eaten on the skin with a smattering of salty butter. This is food that you rip before you eat it, causing many to grunt emphatically and generating an overall picture of medieval barbarianism that characterizes much of modern Icelandic life. HÁKARL – Despite what the giggling locals might try to tell you, no one has peed on the slight- ly discoloured meat you hold before you on a toothpick. Unless you have a severe sinus cold, it’s impossible to miss the pungent ammoniac odour of pickled shark meat. If you manage to overcome the gagging sensations it provokes, hákarl is best followed by a swift infusion of cumin liqueur, also known as ‘Black Death’. PTARMIGAN – This low-flying game bird - “rjúpa” to the locals - is a favourite for many Icelanders around Christmas time, although recently there has been a moratorium on hunting them (while they beef up their num- bers). The taste is rather strong, like a miniature chicken on steroids. You would be well advised to watch out for lead pellets as many a filling has been lost while the rjúpa’s been eaten. RÚGBRAUD – There are spots in this country where the geothermal heat is so close to the surface that you can use the ground as an oven. This relative of molasses bread is excellent with kæfa (the Icelandic version of paté) or with síld (pickled herring). HANGIKJÖT – Lamb that’s been hung and smoked over manure for a few weeks is quite nice in a sandwich according to Icelandic standards. During the holiday season it’s eaten with mushy peas and a flat, rubberised bread that is sold in semi-circles. Bon appetit. HARDFISKUR HANGIKJÖT 042 I-site ATL 304 copy 21.4.2004 13:58 Page 44
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