Atlantica - 01.06.2004, Qupperneq 47

44 A T L A N T I C A
RÚGBRAUD
HÁKARL
Every nation of the world has its own
peculiar cuisine. From sushi in Tokyo to
escargot in the brasseries of Paris, anyone
who has travelled to foreign lands knows
the singular pleasure of sampling an
unknown delicacy. Sometimes pleasure
isn’t exactly the right word. Here then is a
brief overview of what Icelandic super-
markets have to offer around this time of
year. Keep in mind that preservation (not
presentation) plays a large role in
Icelandic cuisine. IAM
i-site
The Dummy’s Guide
to Icelandic Food
SVID
FOOD HOTEL
The grand old dame of Reykjavík
hotels, the Radisson SAS Saga
Hotel, has just undergone exten-
sive renovations. This first-class
establishment, located just a few
minutes’ walk from the city centre,
enjoys a cosmopolitan atmosphere
and is the ideal venue for both
business travellers and tourists.
Over seventy percent of the rooms
have gone through a makeover, in
both light, modern Scandinavian
style or warm, cosy Maritime style,
with wireless Internet connections
in each. Eight suites and one luxu-
ry apartment suite have also
received major facelifts with beau-
tiful new furnishings. Watch out for
a new bistro menu at the renowned
Skrúdur restaurant, which offers a
great variety of daily dishes as well
as famous Saga staples such as
their scrumptious gratin. Hotel visi-
tors will also enjoy the nearby
attractions, which include an
open-air, geothermally heated
swimming pool (with free access
for hotel guests), the National
Museum, National Library and the
Nordic House. AMB
Elegant Cool
P
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O
TO
Á
S
LA
U
G
S
N
O
R
R
A
D
Ó
TT
IR
The Radisson SAS Saga Hotel
PTARMIGAN
SVID – After it’s been singed and boiled, a disembodied sheep’s head looks more like the mummified remains
of food than food itself. It is eaten most frequently around the time of Thorrablót when the light is still dim
enough for you not to be able to see what you’re eating. Apparently the eyeball is the best part – a distinction
not dished out indiscriminately. HARDFISKUR – This wind-dried haddock, cod, and catfish is often eaten on
the skin with a smattering of salty butter. This is food that you rip before you eat it, causing many to grunt
emphatically and generating an overall picture of medieval barbarianism that characterizes much of modern
Icelandic life. HÁKARL – Despite what the giggling locals might try to tell you, no one has peed on the slight-
ly discoloured meat you hold before you on a toothpick. Unless you have a severe sinus cold, it’s impossible to
miss the pungent ammoniac odour of pickled shark meat. If you manage to overcome the gagging sensations
it provokes, hákarl is best followed by a swift infusion of cumin liqueur, also known as ‘Black Death’.
PTARMIGAN – This low-flying game bird - “rjúpa” to the locals - is a favourite for many Icelanders around
Christmas time, although recently there has been a moratorium on hunting them (while they beef up their num-
bers). The taste is rather strong, like a miniature chicken on steroids. You would be well advised to watch out
for lead pellets as many a filling has been lost while the rjúpa’s been eaten. RÚGBRAUD – There are spots in
this country where the geothermal heat is so close to the surface that you can use the ground as an oven. This
relative of molasses bread is excellent with kæfa (the Icelandic version of paté) or with síld (pickled herring).
HANGIKJÖT – Lamb that’s been hung and smoked over manure for a few weeks is quite nice in a sandwich
according to Icelandic standards. During the holiday season it’s eaten with mushy peas and a flat, rubberised
bread that is sold in semi-circles. Bon appetit.
HARDFISKUR
HANGIKJÖT
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