Atlantica - 01.06.2006, Side 39

38 AT L A N T I CA
California State Fair, V. Sattui was named Best Winery in California.
The winery’s success comes down to its Cabernets and Zinfandels,
but its top-selling single wine is Gamay Rouge. So when I step up to the
wine-tasting counter I ask the pourer to skip the dozens of wines avail-
able for sampling, and cut to the chase. What should I expect from the
Gamay Rouge?
“It’s a summertime, hot-tub, bubble-gum drink,” he says, asking me not
to quote him by name.
Between pouring for me, the 50-ish former payroll consultant also
serves a group of four women who seem slightly buzzed. At least I no
longer feel underdressed, I think to myself as I try the Gamay Rouge.
“This wine is too sweet,” I say, giving my best imitation of Goldilocks.
He pours me a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon that I find a little too spicy and
fruity.
“What you’re tasting are the tannins, which is why it’s better to wait on
this wine. The tannins will settle,” he tells me.
Tannins, schmannins, I think to myself. Who has time to wait for
tannins to settle? I make for the deli. The gourmet salami is calling my
name.
IT’S THE WATER…
In Italy, wine culture permeates society. Wine is food rather than drink,
my friend Gaya explained to me, as opposed to the US where the industry
is driven by the moneyed elite with significant disposable incomes who
can sample a menu of wines then drop about USD 1,000 on a case of
Opus One. (A single case of Opus One sold for USD 24,000 on auction at
the inaugural Napa Valley Wine Auction in 1981. Remember, that’s only
six bottles per case.) Those riding in limos or driving Infinities down Main
Street in St. Helena have never tasted Gallo wine from a jug.
“We have fewer Mercedes than St. Helena,” says Gary, a 34-year old
who works at Copperfield’s Books in Calistoga, a resort town known for
its mineral water and spas. Gary, who moved to Calistoga from San Mateo
for peace and quiet, insists Calistoga is more laid back than St. Helena.
Although these picturesque towns, about eight miles apart, are like
weekend summer camps for upper-middle income tourists, neither St.
Helena nor Calistoga feel overly snobbish. Certainly in Calistoga, locals
maintain a strong presence, mixing with those who descend upon the
pastoral town for the spas.
“I always wanted to leave when I was growing up. But you realize
what a great place this is to live when you go to a city,” says Caylie, a
20-year old employee at Golden Haven Hot Springs. The hotel is not as
golden as the name suggests, but the spa’s appointment book is none-
theless full.
There’s not much to do in Calistoga, other than sit in a mud bath or
mineral pool. It’s like a one-Saloon town straight out of the Old West.
The few shops, wine bars and swanky eateries can be found on the main
street: Lincoln Street.
“People usually hang out down at the Inn. Then they go to Hydro
(a bar ‘n’ grill) and if you haven’t had your fill by then head to Susie’s,”
Caylie tells me with a surprising amount of authority, given that she’s
not old enough to drink.
I check out the Calistoga Inn. As soon as I walk inside the locals
stop swilling beer, turn their heads and stare for a moment. After real-
izing I’m nobody special, they return to their beers. Small towns. The
cool, redbrick exterior with Hydro Grill spelled out in big blue letters
certainly attracts visitors. Saddle up to the square horseshoe bar, order
the gazpacho soup and let the friendly bartender pick the wine. As for
Susie’s, I peek into the downtrodden bar around midnight, but nobody’s
there. I’m too early.
Calistoga’s nightlife certainly won’t remind you of Manhattan. But
you don’t come to this sleepy town surrounded by a pillow of rolling
hills to party. You visit to escape the suffocating urban noise (possible
once you drive off Hwy 29). You show up to lounge your troubles away
in a mineral pool, perhaps relax in a couple’s mud bath.
This is Napa Valley. You’re here to swirl, sniff and sip wine. a
NAPA VALLEYa
From left to right: picnicking at V. Sattui winery, south of St. Helena; they grow fruit anywhere they can find space, even on a Laundromat; grapes, grapes and more grapes.
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