Brezk-íslenzk viðskipti - 01.05.1947, Blaðsíða 26

BRETLAND OG ISLAND, Maí, 1947
§ . §
By Letter from Paris §
Paris designers have shown us their Summer secrets.
We know that we shail be wearing longer skirts, shorter
jackets, short sleeves and very high, or alternatively
deeply scooped-out necklines, some of them typical
bateau shapes such as were popular just after the last
war.
If you wish, you can wear an all pleated skirt once
more, or choose a style with fullness drawn to the back
and lifted in a “ fishwife ” or washerwoman movement.
Your dress may appear also as a straight sheath from the
front and have a panel of narrow pleats down the back.
Femininity is the keynote of Summer styles. Frills,
gaging. ruching, tucking, little shoulder capes, basques,
flounces, bows and flowers add a soft touch to most
models. Modern ballots have inspired many designers
with their calf, ankle and instep-length dinner and dance
dresses, usually with bodices and skirts of contrasting
colours.
There are still two distinct lines for evening; the tiny
bodice with a full following skirt, and the slickest of
pencil-slim lines topped by a broad-brimmed hat you
associate with Mae West. Curves are fashionable anyway,
broad but rounded shoulders, rounded cut-away jacket
fronts, rounded necklines, yokes and pocket patches.
The colours to watch are the classics; navy blue and
black, the first trimmed with white, the second with white
or pale pink. Next in the popularity stakes comes grey.
Follows tortoiseshell, all the lovely golden-yellow, brown,
amber and cinnamon shades, ending in a series of tobacco
and dull brown tones. Greens are plentiful and lean
towards the soft pale lichen, eucalyptus and almond
tones. True yellows appear also—straw, honey and
lemon tones. Pastel mauves, notably wistoris, find
favour, even if rather more difficult to wear.
PAULINE.
oötoOO'oOO'c-OogO-tgOo
§ §
§ By Air Mail from New York §
tyyi uCn uOn LOn oOo 0O-1 oOn oO-. cO'i lOo 0O-1 oöo
American women are not going back to the 1910 or
1920 fashion; they are wearing slick suits with set in
sleeves, wide shoulders but no grotesque padding, drop
shoulders or Dolman sleeves. Waist lines moulded low
in back, jacket lengths 27 inches, getting longer despite
austerity regulation. This is not revolution but just
good sense. Colours—they cannot get enough of cream
caramel material—and if they can obtain this colourthey
love to combine it with black and white checks.
There is a great demand for gold and green. Skirts
lengths just below the knee.
American women are very practical and an afternoon-
going-on-to-dinner dress can easily be made into a short
evening dress. Dinner suits with both long and short
skirts of satin or wool with discreet use jewel embroidery
and sequins are in demand. They have got over the little
morning-till-midnight dress or basic suit dictated by the
war and now emerge in yards and yards of tulle combined
with silk. Over these glamorous dresses is worn a full
length coat in scarlet, orchid or pale blue, and the best
design so far seen in the smart clubs of New York is in
moonstone velour by the London designer Hardy Amies.
Hats have too many birds and too many veils but hats
are back to stay.
DICKIE MILLS
gOO OOO
§ §
§ From London
§ §
Confining myself to millinery I would suggest the main
impression of the recent London shows was one of
exquisite materials and trimmings equalled only by the
incredible high cost of the hats. The rich variety of
materials sows the seeds of greenest envy in the hearts
of British housewives.
Victorian bathing caps and London coster’s cap are
the inspiration for two houses.
Majority of daytime hats are small and fit well on the
back of the head. Perched hat is completely out. All
hats are worn on the back of the head mostly with crown
following hair line. Even newer is forwards and
sidewards and side ways movement of pleated and rolled
brims sweeping across the head with pleasantly soft
lines.
Great interest is being shown by British women in the
hats worn by the two Royal princesses during their visit
to South Africa. Colours clear, pastel shades with no
shocking colours. Moss rose, mignonette and combina-
tions of lilac.
Skirts will be longer. About 12 to 13 inches off the
ground. Shoes will maintain semi-high heels, and
moderate wedged soles will be popular to give added
height.
BUNNY MACKENZIE
26
NOt GENTLEMEN, NOT FOR YOU