Reykjavík Grapevine - 29.07.2016, Page 72

Reykjavík Grapevine - 29.07.2016, Page 72
L I F E , T R AV E L & E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N I C E L A N D Issue 11 × 2016 July 29 - August 11 www.grapevine.is “Schmuck?” Piss-warm Gull was beginning to dull my taste buds and whet my tongue. I was at a house party, debating organized religion. Someone found it distasteful in all of its manifestations. I begged to differ. He seemed to think religion was faith. “That’s very Lutheran of you,” I said, “but I think it’s bigger, vaguer than that.” “Are you Catholic?” someone asked. ••• ••• ••• ••• “Nei,” I switched to Icelandic. I’d returned to Iceland to study the language; why not flaunt my fancy lexicon? “Ég er gæðingur.” Everyone snickered. Someone changed the subject. What was so funny about Jews? I feared the worst. ••• ••• ••• ••• Days later, the exchange had gone the way of all my tipsy debates with Hitchens and Dawkins acolytes; that is to say, I’d almost for- gotten it. But this word “gæðingur” popped up in my head again—a weird word, an etymo- logical anomaly. Most of the world’s languages derive their word for “Jew” from the Hebrew “y’hudi.” Sounds and spellings change as the word crossed languages, yet the Hebrew origin generally remains clear enough. But gæðingur? The fuck did all these consonants come from? ••• ••• ••• ••• Trusting the Internet’s tendency to answer questions promptly, I searched the word in an online dictionary. “Gæðingur: a good rid- ing horse.” As it turns out, you have to ask the right questions. The word for “Jew,” I subse- quently discovered, was gyðingur, a com- pound formed from the word Guð (“God”) and -ingur, a suffix used to denote an inhabitant of a place or a follower of a tradition. Gyðin- gur, a person of God. ••• ••• ••• ••• But nope. I am a gæðingur. A good riding horse, a stallion, a stud. Not a bad thing to be, of course, except that the double meaning isn’t there in Icelandic. It means “horse.” Yes, an ex- ceptionally well-trained, well-groomed, and reliably rideable horse, but a horse nonetheless. ••• ••• ••• ••• There are a few dozen Jews and 80,000 horses in Iceland. It took some time for us to settle our theological differences, but the studs agree that it’s bigger, vaguer than that. “Ul- timately,” one of them told me, “It’s all about schmuck.” “Schmuck?” I asked. “I meant schmoozing.” ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• SHARE: gpv.is/last Elijah Petzold LAST WORDS Gullfoss canyon rafting Your adventure tour operator in Iceland since 1983 Book your adventure now! arcticrafting.com Rafting on a glacial river Enjoy beautiful landscape from a new angle! Rafting down Hvítá glacial river is a splendid way to spend the day and enjoy gentle rapids and a spectacular canyon scenery. adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354 562 7000 | Reykjavík sales office at Laugavegur 11 Easy | 4–7 hours | May 15th – Sep. 30th | Min. age 11 years TOURIST INFORMATION AND FREE BOOKING SERVICE Bankastræti 2 - Downtown itm@itm.is - www.itm.is Tel: +354 522 4979 Summer: 08.00 - 21.00 Winter: 09.00 - 19.00 We are proud to be the first & only downtown Tourist Information fully accredited by both the Icelandic Tourist Board and the Vakinn Quality System. Drop by, we speak... Sp ö r e h f. WHERE FRIES ARE TWICE AS NICE! Vitastígur 10 | rvkchips.is

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