Iceland review - 2002, Blaðsíða 44

Iceland review - 2002, Blaðsíða 44
Around noon every day of the summer-season week, a throng of tourists shows up on a grassy cliff overlooking the Kulusuk harbour to watch ‘The Kayak Man’, a local hunter who is employed by Air Iceland to entertain its afternoon guests. “This is our Kayak Man, Pelle,” announces an Icelandic tour guide in a logoed fleece. Also named Pelle, this hunter has been working on these cliffs for two years since the airline’s first Kayak Man died in 1999. He carries his kayak down the cliff over his shoul- der, hunting spear in hand. Once in the water, the hunter makes a wide arc around an ice floe to demonstrate traditional Inuit kayak- hunting techniques. Ooohs, aaaahs, and rounds of applause fol- low. Anda, a fellow airline employee and Kulusuk native, performs next, appearing in the traditional white anorak and seal skin boots to do a drum dance for the group. The songs that Anda sings every day are the only kind of music native to Inuit culture. The per- formance is interesting, but the scene is strange: a loud helicopter passes overhead midway and, when Anda finishes, the gathered group quickly claps their approval and scatters to soak up Kulusuk’s other sights before jogging back to a preflight stop at duty-free. Not a plane, train, or automobile The quickest way to get a laugh in Greenland? Ask for a road map. If you don’t hire a boat to Kulusuk, you’ve got one other option – chopper. I’ve been escorted to the front passenger seat of the Tasiilaq-bound helicopter at Kulusuk Airport, strapped into an alarmingly spare harness by an alarmingly young Danish pilot. As the helicopter’s blades have already started their slow, deafening rounds, I point to the headset dangling in front of me and raise my eyebrows in question to the pilot. He nods solemnly: on they go. “First time in Greenland?” The pilot points to the plexiglas underneath our feet that offers a spectacular if vertigo-inspiring 42 ICELAND REVIEW GETTING AROUND The Kulusuk Airport is a displaced, silver box whose designer forgot to draw the line on the old-meets-new aesthetic when adding seal-fur detail to the stainless steel wall panelling inside. Air Iceland offers daily flights into Kulusuk during the summer season, and twice a week from September to May. If you’re continuing on to western Greenland, Greenland Air connects Kulusuk to several domestic destinations. From Kulusuk, Ammassalik island, home to the town of Tasiilaq, is acces- sible only by boat or helicopter. You can arrange a boat ahead of time through the youth hostel and travel agency in Kulusuk, or through one of the tourist agencies in Tasiilaq. You can also reportedly try to hitch a ride with a hunter making the crossing at the harbour. Air Alpha Greenland packs seven passengers in per flight on a regular weekly schedule back and forth to Tasiilaq for 545 Dkr each way. Tickets can be purchased at the airport. WHERE TO STAY The road to Kulusuk passes the town’s only hotel, aptly named Hotel Kulusuk, about halfway to the village. Opened in 1998, this hotel is owned by two brothers from Tasiilaq who also run Hotel Ammassalik in Tasiilaq and Arctic Wonderland Tours out of both. They offer jeep and boat tours during the summer season and sled tours in the winter. There is also a youth hostel in Kulusuk proper, run under the name Kulusuk Youth Club, providing similar services. Camping is also an option. Geographical orientation in Tasiilaq is not difficult. It is built around its old centre and harbour – dubbed Marina Arctica – and up the rocky hill- side, where different clusters of hunters’ houses have been erected. The newest part of town, with a recently built school, hospital and new housing, lies on a peninsula to the north. Tourists have a simple selection of accommodations with tourist offices: Hotel Nansen, a small, casual hotel just opened this summer, Hotel Ammassalik, the most ambitious venture at the top of the town, and The Red House, an ecologically and socially conscious guest house. Visitors can also pitch tents for free out- side of town or for a small fee by the harbour. 40 IR302 - Grænland bs-rm 3.9.2002 12:13 Page 42
Blaðsíða 1
Blaðsíða 2
Blaðsíða 3
Blaðsíða 4
Blaðsíða 5
Blaðsíða 6
Blaðsíða 7
Blaðsíða 8
Blaðsíða 9
Blaðsíða 10
Blaðsíða 11
Blaðsíða 12
Blaðsíða 13
Blaðsíða 14
Blaðsíða 15
Blaðsíða 16
Blaðsíða 17
Blaðsíða 18
Blaðsíða 19
Blaðsíða 20
Blaðsíða 21
Blaðsíða 22
Blaðsíða 23
Blaðsíða 24
Blaðsíða 25
Blaðsíða 26
Blaðsíða 27
Blaðsíða 28
Blaðsíða 29
Blaðsíða 30
Blaðsíða 31
Blaðsíða 32
Blaðsíða 33
Blaðsíða 34
Blaðsíða 35
Blaðsíða 36
Blaðsíða 37
Blaðsíða 38
Blaðsíða 39
Blaðsíða 40
Blaðsíða 41
Blaðsíða 42
Blaðsíða 43
Blaðsíða 44
Blaðsíða 45
Blaðsíða 46
Blaðsíða 47
Blaðsíða 48
Blaðsíða 49
Blaðsíða 50
Blaðsíða 51
Blaðsíða 52
Blaðsíða 53
Blaðsíða 54
Blaðsíða 55
Blaðsíða 56
Blaðsíða 57
Blaðsíða 58
Blaðsíða 59
Blaðsíða 60
Blaðsíða 61
Blaðsíða 62
Blaðsíða 63
Blaðsíða 64
Blaðsíða 65
Blaðsíða 66
Blaðsíða 67
Blaðsíða 68
Blaðsíða 69
Blaðsíða 70
Blaðsíða 71
Blaðsíða 72
Blaðsíða 73
Blaðsíða 74
Blaðsíða 75
Blaðsíða 76
Blaðsíða 77
Blaðsíða 78
Blaðsíða 79
Blaðsíða 80
Blaðsíða 81
Blaðsíða 82
Blaðsíða 83
Blaðsíða 84


Iceland review

Beinir tenglar

Ef þú vilt tengja á þennan titil, vinsamlegast notaðu þessa tengla:

Tengja á þennan titil: Iceland review

Tengja á þetta tölublað:

Tengja á þessa síðu:

Tengja á þessa grein:

Vinsamlegast ekki tengja beint á myndir eða PDF skjöl á Tí þar sem slíkar slóðir geta breyst án fyrirvara. Notið slóðirnar hér fyrir ofan til að tengja á vefinn.