Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags

Volume

Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags - 01.01.1984, Page 73

Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags - 01.01.1984, Page 73
ÍSLENSKUR BRÚÐARBÚNINGUR í ENSKU SAFNI 77 VIÐAUKI I Lýsing William Hooker á kvenbúningi þeim er hann fékk á íslandi 1809, birt neðanmáls bls. 72-79 í ferðabók hans, sbr. supra, bls. 72, 1. tilvitnun. Eins og fram kemur í lýsing- unni er hún að verulegu leyti greinargerð á íslensku scm Hooker fékk um hina ýmsu hluta búningsins, en stiftamtmaður, Trampe greifi, útvcgaði honum í enskri þýðingu. Höfundar greinargerðarinnar er hvcrgi getið. (Tckið skal fram að engin grcinaskil eru í lýsingunni í bókinni, en hefur verið bætt inn í hér til hægðarauka við lesturinn.) As I had this day 127. júní], for the first timc, an opportunity of observing carefully the dress of an Icclandic lady, which is diffcrent fronr that of othcr countries, I shall avail myself of the present occasion of describing [bls. 73] it at some lcngth; a thing I am thc bctter able to do, since I had the good fortune to bring onc of thc richest in the island safe to England with me. I have prcscrvcd, also, an Icelandic account of the different articles it is composed of; from an English translation of which, that thc governor has bcen so good as to procure me, I have borrowed a grcat part of what follows. To bcgin then with the Faldur, or head-drcss: this is thc most singular and unbe- coming part, and I feel such a difficulty in making my dcscription of it intclligible, that I think it right to anncx ati engraving of it [sjá supra, bls. 64, 12. mynd]. The insidc is composed of a numbcr of pieces of paper, foldcd into an oblong shape, and neatly covered with two white lincn handkcrchicfs, in such a way that, below the bottom of thc papcr, thcy are formed into a sort of cap, that ftts the head, and goes on ncarly as far as the cars, which arc, however, always exposed, whilst the hair is carefully twisted into a knot on thc crown of thc head, and cntircly concealed. From the top of the hcad to the cxtremity, thc Faldur mcasurcs cighteen inches, and, from a cyl- indrical shape bclow, becomcs gradually compressed, till the upper part is quitc flat, and bends ovcr in the front in a man- [bls. 74] ner that sonrcwhat rcsembles an ostrich feather, though sadly infcrior to it in clcgance. Its width at the top is five inches and a half; lowcr down, near the hcad, four inches and a half. The part which covers the hcad is bound round, to keep it on tnorc securcly, with two handsonte chcquered silk handkerchicfs like a turban, but more tight. The uppcr part is stiffencd with numer- ous rows of pins. Three gilt silvcr ornaments arc fastcncd to the front of the Faldur, about cight or tcn inchcs above the top of thc hcad, of a spherical shapc, hollow, orn- amented with open work, and richly cmbosscd; from these hang knobs of thc same metal, and rings with lcaf-like appendages; in thc ccntre of the ring is an cmbossed figurc of the Blessed Virgin, with Our Saviour in her arms. Thc ncxt articlc I shall mention is the Upphlutur, or bodice; which is made of fine green velvct, bound with a narrow strip of gold lacc, with two broad bands of the same materials, and of elcgant workmanship, in front, and three on thc back; this is fastened before, all the way down thc middle, by means of six large clasps of silvcr gilt, on each sidc of thc opening, as large as a half crown, and fincly embossed with flowers; and thcsc clasps arc rendered more conspicuous by being fixed upon a bordcr of black velvet, with a red edge. From thc bodicc depends a grecn pctticoat of fine cloth, which gocs over several othcrs of wadmal. Over this is worn anothcr petticoat (Fat) of fmc bluc broadcloth, which, of coursc, conccals the grecn one: it is bound witli rcd at thc bottom, just abovc whicb is a broad bordcr of flowcrs of various colors, worked in tambour. Over the pctticoat in front, is worn an apron (Svynta) made of thc same materials, ornamentcd with flowers likc the pctticoat, and bordered all round with red. From the uppcr part of it hang thrcc large silver gilt ornamcnts; thc centre one spherical, the latcral oncs hemispherical; all hollow, riclily ornamented and cmbossed, and having a silver leaf depending from
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Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags

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