Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags - 01.01.2004, Side 47

Willerslev, Richard, „Den danske tekstilindustris udviklingsforløb 1730–1960“. De danske
tekstilerhverv. Faglig, biografisk håndbog for tekstilerhvervene i Danmark. 1. b., ritstj. Helge
Bjørn og E. Zinklar Zinglersen, Kaupmannah. 1965, bls. 111–150.
Yde-Andersen, D., „Det gamle farveri“, De danske tekstilerhverv. Faglig, biografisk håndbog for
tekstilerhvervene i Danmark, 1. b., ritstj. Helge Bjørn og E. Zinklar Zinglersen, Kaup-
mannah. 1965, bls. 11–26.
Þorkell Jóhannesson, „Ullariðnaður“, Iðnsaga Íslands. 2. b., ritstj. Guðmundur Finnboga-
son, Reykjavík 1943, bls. 135–153.
Summary
Calimancoes and broadcloth
Farming with sheep has been the main industry of the people of Iceland from the time
of the settlement in the 9th century to the first decades of the 20th century when fishing
replaced farming as the main economic source.Wool work was the main indoor activity
in the traditional Icelandic farming society. Iceland did, however, not keep pace with
most of the other Nordic countries when they adopted technical reformations in wool
work. The spinning wheel and loom with horizontal warp became known in the
neighbouring countries in the high middle ages and by the end of medieval times these
had become an indispensable part, if not a prerequisite, to the rising wool industry in
Europe such as that which developed in England. It is presumed that little, if any, changes
occurred in the use of implements for combing, spinning and weaving in Iceland from
medieval times to the first half of the 16th century when the technique of knitting
became known to the inhabitants. Long toothed combs were used for combing wool, a
spindle was used for the spinning of yarn.Weaving was done in a loom where the warp
hung vertical and the warp threads were kept taut with free hanging stones – the warp-
weighted loom.These ancient implements were still in use at the dawn of the 18th century.
Mercantile trade and economic ideas were adopted by the king of Denmark and affec-
ted Iceland in the 18th century, Iceland being a dependency in the realm of the Danish
king.Various Danish and Icelandic officials proposed several ways to reform the economic
and industrial situation in Iceland. Many of their reformative contemplations referred to
the situation in the wool work of the natives at that time.Their concern about the primitive
techniques is further augmented by accounts of the Danish monopolic trade (1602-1787)
and narrations of people touring Iceland in the 18th century.The view presented in these
sources is rather bleak. It appears that Icelanders lacked fundamental skill in handling the
wool as required by the trade and industry of the time. Sorting by colour and quality was
poorly done and there are indications that knowledge in the use of woolcombs had declined.
Not surprising the Danish merchants complained and set strict regulations for the handling
of wool and woollen goods in trade with Iceland. Others pointed out the natural quality of
the Icelandic wool – the softness and felting quality of the short and curly fibers of the
46 ÁRBÓK FORNLEIFAFÉLAGSINS