Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags - 01.01.2004, Síða 48

undercoat – þel – and the length, strength and luster of the fibers of the overcoat – tog.
Among these defenders of the wool was the poet and scholar Eggert Ólafsson. Similar
views on the Icelandic wool appear in the accounts of a Norvegian traveler by the name of
Mathias Jochumssen [Vagel] who traveled in Iceland during the years 1729–1731. Vagel
points out the backwardness of the natives in the handling of wool and the primitive tec-
hniques applied in spinning and weaving but he also emphasizes the natural quality of the
Icelandic wool, recommends measures for technical improvements and even suggests that a
woollen and worsted production, based on the Icelandic wool, might be tried.
In the mid 18th century a group of officials and prominent Icelandic farmers found-
ed a joint-stock company, named the Innréttingar, aiming to realise ideas of economic
and industrial reforms of various kinds. Among these ideas was the establishment of a
wool factory. The original idea appears to have been to train the natives in the use of
new implements and techniques for combing, spinning and weaving – to encourage and
enable them to improve wool industry on the farms. However, more ambitious ideas
soon emerged.These concerned the establishment of a wool factory operated with wor-
kers trained to meet the standards in skilled industry. Factory houses were erected on
the site which is known now as the street of Aðalstræti in the capital of Reykjavík. In-
ventories done at intervals during the time the factory was in operation have proved a
valuable source as to the nature of the operation.The wool factory operated in two sec-
tors in likewise manner as in full fledged wool industries abroad.The “Duchmacher Fa-
brique” – woollen factory – produced what in English is known as broadcloth or cloth,
in Icelandic named klæði. Such cloth was produced of short wools of high felting qua-
lities which were prepared by the process of carding. The fabric was usually of simple
weave and the milling process included fulling, teasing and shearing. After the final
touches – brushing and pressing – the cloth resembled felt. Such cloth was usually of one
colour. In the woollen factory of the Innréttingar it appears that the production of fine
broadcloth centered on the short type of hair – þel – from the Icelandic wool. Broad-
cloth of various types are listed in the inventories.The ”Zeugmager Fabrique“ procuced
worsteds – fabrics usually made from the long lustrous varieties of wool. In the worsted
factory of the Innréttingar the production centered on the longer type of fleace hair –
tog .Worsted fabrics were prepared by the process of combing.The fabric was not fulled,
teased and shorn like cloth.Various kinds of worsteds were produced in the Aðalstræti
factory, they differed in the techniques of weaving and in colour. A fulling mill and a
special dyehouse was operated in connection with the Innréttingar wool factory. In the
first years of operation the dyeing was situated in the valley of the river Elliðaár (1753–
1761). Later the dyeing was moved to the main factory site in Aðalstræti (1761–1803).
Inventories list various imported dyestuffs and chemicals. Among the dyestuffs listed are
varieties that were considered fundamental in the dye industry of that time – stuffs such
as indigo, cocenille, madder, Brazilwood and sumac. Clothprinting was also operated in
Aðalstræti in connection with the wool factory. Inventories list various tools, dyestuffs
and chemicals fundamental in clothprinting. The wool factory soon encountered
various operational difficulties, amongst them technical difficulties. The operation was
finally discontinued in 1803. To operate such a factory successfully the supplies of raw
material and disciplined labor force must be reliable. Such stability was not at disposal in
Iceland at the time the factory was in operation.
KALEMANK OG KLÆDI 47